7 shirts ordered last year – permanent style

We are not talking about shirt commissions, which, unlike suits, coats and shoes, are often applied to permanent styles. But I add a little bit every year in addition to the PS we make up. Madras or eight.

The selection tends to be a mix of recreating old fabrics that are worn out (or perhaps ruined by some stray source), new ideas from other brands, looking at shirts, and new designs offered by shirt factories.

I thought it would be interesting to look at some of the things I’ve made over the past year to discuss new ideas and illustrate the kinds of building blocks I’m remaking.

By the way, I use Simone Abbarchi’s MTM most of the time. I mostly make button downs with Luca Avitabile because I love his collar rolls, especially in oxfords. D’Avino I use it more for special shirts or just for pops.

1: Lilac Oxford Experiment

This was a new idea. I love Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s lilac colored shirts, often mixed with gray and navy suits, so I wanted to give them a try. I found that it functions in a very similar way to the pink shirt I often wear, but slightly more unique and perhaps less preppy.

I used one of Thomas Mason’s fine oxfords, not because of the quality but because the color was just right. (If I use the word ‘quality’ here in its industrial sense, it means the specific yarn, weave and finish – everything except color and pattern.)

It is displayed here. My gray Assisi double-breasted suit, And also appeared in trunk suit reviews. The fabric is FM33854/81B, ‘Cambridge’.

2: white linen staples

This shirt is the opposite. I wear way too many white linen shirts in the summer. Sometimes I wear them 3-4 times a week, so I often need a new shirt when the weather gets warmer. (Not all shirts last a year, but one out of every three or four I have needs to be replaced).

My wardrobe of darker, more muted colors is usually better with crisp white shirts than anything else. I tan very easily and it seems to suit my skin well.

I wear this with mine. Silk jacket by Pirozzi Gray high twist pants. The fabric is a particularly fine linen from D&J Anderson, FM40650/1.

3: try light blue

I think there is a tendency among men to stick to certain shades of color. Because it assumes that all colors will function the same. For that reason I tended to order blue shirts of the same color. A conversation with Alex Cvetkovic I’m interested in a paler, light blue color.

In fact, ‘ice blue’ would probably be a better term. This is to convey the fact that this is a noticeably lighter blue than normal, almost halfway between white and blue. It goes well with things like white, but has lower contrast and is often easier on people with paler skin. It also looks smarter to the touch.

Here’s what I wore: Stephen Hitchcock’s cashmere blazer. The fabric is Thomas Mason’s superfine 240 poplin, FM404205/11. (Actually, they are all Thomas Mason products. They are so popular these days.)

4: linen chambray

This linen chambray lucas This was a piece I created during a meeting with Luca Avitabile, and I really liked it. As with many commissions, it’s much easier once you see how the commission is structured.

Of course, most chambrays are cotton, and linen is a great summer alternative. This one has a particularly pleasant slubbyness to it.

This includes a navy seersucker suit by Jean-Manuel Moreau. This is my old suit that I replaced with a Dalcuore that was too small. The fabric is FM301233/130 ‘Alassio’.

5: Beige stripes for a reason

This was the first light beige striped shirt I came across and it was born out of a special need. I wear a lot of black or very dark colored tailoring, and I wanted a shirt that wouldn’t stand out too much from my plain white clothes, but was subtle enough to go with almost anything.

Beige stripes proved to be a good solution. The stripes are subtle, almost like texture, so they are very versatile. But it’s not ordinary, so it adds interest when the suit and tie are both plain, as shown.

The suit is Art du Lin linen by PirozziWith Whitcomb & Shaftesbury trousers. The fabric is TM’s Journey Twill, FM412123/21. It’s similar to a lilac oxford, but I chose it for the color rather than the quality.

6: standard shadow stripe

This was replacing a shirt that was about 6 years old, and was starting to look pretty tatty (not in a good way with the frayed ivy collar). I really like these shadow stripes (the ones with a wider color than white) and wear them a lot with denim.

I didn’t have the right jacket that day. alex Since I was in the office for a shoot, I borrowed a blazer from Carl at Rubato. This is his gold DB from Taillor. Please direct all inquiries to them!

The fabric is a cotton/linen blend, so if you don’t like the wrinkles of linen, I highly recommend it as a summer smart shirt. FM40462 This is Thomas Mason’s ‘Zephyr 170’. / 13.

7: cozy winter flannel

Of course, now is not the best season to wear it, but this brushed cotton shirt is a great item to wear in winter. I always felt cold, and in winter it feels wonderful against my skin.

I used to wear quite a lot of plain gray clothes in brushed cotton. This was introduced a few years ago – But I think something with some checks is more interesting and bright colors are also easier to wear. Like the beige stripes, I think small checks go well with black.

The jacket is again my Pirozzi silk, worn with gray trousers and Meyrowitz ‘Californian’ sunglasses. The fabric is ‘Balmoral’ FM69809/40.