Why I didn’t like Curacao (but I didn’t hate it either)

The oil refinery I saw on the way to my rental apartment in Curaçao was a harbinger of things to come.

The Caribbean conjures up images of white sand beaches, palm trees, coral reefs and tropical drinks. This summer I planned to travel a lot to the Caribbean (spoiler alert: I didn’t). At the top of my list of places to visit was Curaçao, located in the Netherlands Antilles, known for its casinos, nightlife, and eponymous blue liqueur.

As I flew to Curaçao, I dreamed of all the sights of the Caribbean and imagined myself relaxing on a long white sand beach with a piña colada in hand. The largest and most rugged of the ABC (Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao) islands, Curaçao also promises good hiking and non-beach activities.

But upon arrival I was disappointed.

What they don’t show in the brochure is the oil refinery on the edge of town. Do you know these beautiful, colorful coastal photos showing Curaçao’s famous scenery?

Well, right nearby is a not-so-spectacular oil refinery spewing black smoke into the air, quite noticeable from the town.

The refinery set the tone for the week.

Curaçao was, as we say, “Meh”. It wasn’t a bad place, but it didn’t break my heart. I left the country indifferent. The atmosphere of the island did not suit me. I wanted to love it, but when I got on the plane back home, nothing about Curaçao satisfied my sadness about leaving or my desire to stay.

Let’s start with the beach. It’s cool, but it’s not that great. All beaches near major cities are resort beaches. That means you’ll have to pay to enjoy the beach if you’re not already staying at the resort. It is cluttered with people, lounge chairs and artificial breakers to protect against waves and create a quiet swimming area. (Not that the calm beach is bad, but there are barriers to reduce the flow of water, and most resorts have boats and marinas, so the water didn’t feel the cleanest.)

The northern beach is open, wider and more natural. But despite this, it is not the long white sand beach we often imagine. Moreover, the coastline is full of dead coral and rocks. Was it pretty? yes. Did I sit there and say, “Damn, this is so beautiful”? confident. Am I surprised by them? No, it doesn’t. There is something better.

I was also disappointed by the lack of affordable and accessible public transportation. Buses only run every two hours and taxi fares are prohibitively expensive (US$50 for a 15-minute taxi ride). If you want to see the island, you should definitely rent a car during your stay. Without one, it really limits what you can see.

Plus, even the town isn’t that pretty. Outside of Willemstad’s famous waterfront, I was not particularly impressed by the scenery, buildings or houses. Even the resort looked old. Nothing adds more charm to a city than a little grime and wear, but in Curaçao, grit only adds to the feeling of abject neglect.

But one of my favorite things was the locals. They traveled. They were friendly, helpful and great conversationalists. I stayed in an Airbnb rental and the host, Milly, was very friendly and helpful. She even drove me a few extra miles to places so I didn’t have to take a taxi. When I return to Curaçao, I will stay at her house again.

While looking for a place to eat, I stumbled upon a local, family-run restaurant near my apartment and ate most of my meals there. Every time I came in, they welcomed me as if they had known me for years. (I was probably the only non-local eating there.) Jack from the other restaurant was kind enough to give me his phone number so I could call him if I needed anything, and he always remembered me when he saw me and that I really liked his lemonade.

And there were the bus drivers who helped guide me around town, the locals who gave me a hitchhiker ride when the bus didn’t come, and the countless kind conversations and moments of help that occurred throughout the week.

If I go back, it will be for the people, not the place.

Curaçao wasn’t terrible, but I’ve experienced better destinations. Maybe I didn’t like it because I had high expectations. Considering nearby Aruba and Bonaire are considered Caribbean paradises, I just lump Curaçao in with them. When we build positions in our heads, expectations can often lead to disappointment.

I left Curaçao with no desire to return. I’m glad I went and would encourage others to go too, but there was nothing in Curaçao that couldn’t be found better or cheaper elsewhere.

You can’t love every destination. It is impossible. I can generally find good things everywhere, but humans have opinions, feelings, and preferences, and mine doesn’t favor Curaçao.

You have to go and explore the island yourself. You won’t find me there.