Spain’s hidden villages and untamed landscapes

Spain has long been associated with sunny beaches, vibrant cities and world-renowned cuisine. Barcelona, ​​Madrid and Ibiza are famous for a reason, but the true soul of Spain is often found in remote places. One of my favorite regions is northern Spain. Green mountains, rugged coastlines and medieval villages offer a completely different perspective. It doesn’t get as many visitors as the hotspots to the south, but in my opinion, it’s just as beautiful.

If you want to see a quieter side of Spain, consider breaking off the usual tourist trail and heading north to Madrid. After spending a few days in Madrid (it’s truly amazing), you’ll train north for a week or more to wander along paths carved into the mountains by the Romans, explore deserts few travelers know about, and hike to villages where traditions persisted centuries after the fall of the empire.

Today I want to share three of my favorite destinations: Las Médulas, Bardenas Reales, and Santillana del Mar. Each destination offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty and cultural immersion and is fully accessible from Madrid.

1. Bone Marrow

Almost 2,000 years ago, Roman engineers transformed the region in their search for gold. They used a technique called ruina montium (“mountain destruction”) to channel water through tunnels, causing entire hills to collapse, revealing gold deposits in the area. The result is a surreal landscape of jagged red cliffs, potholes and gullies, softened by chestnut forests and dotted with walking trails. Today, Las Médulas is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring power of nature. As you hike through the canyons and along the Roman cloisters, it’s easy to imagine the labor and vision required to reshape this rugged landscape.

What I love about Las Médulas is its quietness. Even in peak season, you can find long stretches of walking trails where the only sounds you can hear are footsteps and rustling leaves. The view from the ridge is spectacular, and the scent of night lingers in the air. It’s a place that makes you slow down, not just to take pictures, but to feel the history and tranquility.

Highlights and Trails

• Senda de las Baliñas (4km loop): This gentle path winds through shady chestnut forests and past the entrance to a Roman tunnel. This is perfect for an easy morning walk that still gives you a sense of the scope of the site. Stop often and look up at the cliffs. The combination of greenery and red soil makes for great photos.
• Orellan Perspective: A short but steep climb leads to a platform overlooking crimson ridges and valleys. Sunset is my favorite time here, when the fading light turns the cliffs almost orange. There is also a small gallery where you can see how the Romans carved the rock.
• Orelan Gallery: For a bit of adventure, explore the restored mine tunnels. Standing inside, you can imagine workers carrying torches and carrying dirt.
• Around Senda (14km loop): For dedicated hikers, this route circles the entire archaeological area. You’ll pass secluded forests, small farms, and the occasional wild boar’s tracks. It’s long, but not difficult, and you’ll often find yourself tackling it on your own.
• Castro de Chano: Just a short drive away, this pre-Roman hill fort shows that the story of Las Médulas goes back even further than Roman times.
• Rayrigo’s perspective: A little-known lookout with quiet benches and panoramic views across chestnut forests and distant hills.

practical details
place to stay: Ponferrada is 30 minutes away and has a variety of hotels and guesthouses.

best season: Autumn, full of golden leaves and refreshing air. Spring brings mild weather and blooming wildflowers.

tip: Bring water and snacks, especially if you plan to attempt a long hike. Use a map or GPS app to help you follow marked trails.

2. Bardenas Reales

Heading south from Pamplona, ​​the landscape changes dramatically. Rolling farmlands give way to arid plains and eventually semi-deserts of ocher-colored rocks and dramatic valleys. This is Bardenas Reales, a 42,000 hectare natural park in the Navarre region. Although it is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and an active military area, shepherds still graze their flocks across the plains and wildlife such as griffon eagles and foxes thrive. Because the park is isolated, you can often access most of the trails on your own.

When I first visited, I was amazed at how diverse the landscape was. It looks barren from a distance, but once inside, you can see details such as the rippling patterns in the clay, sturdy flowers clinging to the cracks, and the occasional shepherd dog running behind the herd. The sense of space is thrilling. It’s a destination that invites wanderlust and rewards those who invest the time.

Attractions and Routes

• Castidetierra: This thin rock peak is the park’s symbol. Photographers love the look of dawn, when soft light highlights delicate forms. Even if you’re not chasing the perfect shot, it’s worth watching the shadows move across your apartment.
• La Blanca Baja Loop (34 km): You can explore the entire central section of the park by driving or cycling along this track. Stop at the observation deck to admire the canyons, rock formations, and expansive basin where storms formed shallow pools.
• Hiking Piskerra and El Rallón: This moderate route climbs into the heart of the moors. Expect rugged trails and thrilling views from the summit ridge. Bring plenty of water as there is no shade beyond the lowlands.
• Pilate’s Balcony: A high vantage point where griffon eagles migrate on warm air currents. Watching them soar above the valley is an unforgettable experience.
• Head of curtain: A quieter formation reached by a short track. The color of the rock changes from pale cream to copper depending on the sun.
• Aragon River Corridor: To see the softer side of the park, follow the green strip along the river. Great for bird watching and relaxation from the dry heat.

practical details
place to stay: Tudela is the nearest town with comfortable accommodation and excellent local restaurants serving Navarra specialties.

best season: Visit in spring or early fall when temperatures are pleasant. After rain, wildflowers appear, adding a variety of colors to the plains. Summers can be very hot.

tip: There is no service inside the park, so prepare water, sunscreen, and snacks in advance.

3. Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar is one of my favorite places in northern Spain. It is located in Cantabria, about 30 minutes inland from the coast. Cobbled streets, well-preserved medieval architecture and charming squares make it one of the most picturesque villages in the region. The town is also the gateway to Altamira Cave, one of the most important prehistoric sites in Europe, famous for its Paleolithic paintings. Wandering the narrow streets is like stepping back in time, and staying overnight after the day trippers leave allows you to enjoy the tranquility.

What makes Santillana special is how alive it feels. Despite the old walls, there is absolutely no dust. Small bakeries sell sobao with butter, shop owners greet you warmly as you pass by, and horses sometimes pass through the alley. The rhythm is leisurely and warm.

Things to see and do

• Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana: It is a Romanesque gem with tranquil cloisters and intricate capitals. Take your time and explore the arches and stone carvings.
• Altamira Cave Replica: The original caves are closed to preserve the art, but the replicas are impressive. Standing beneath a canopy of bison and horses provides a glimpse into human creativity from 14,000 years ago.
• Altamira Museum: A museum next to the cave that expands on the prehistoric culture of the area. The exhibits are interesting and family friendly.
• Plaza Mayor: The central square is surrounded by stone houses with wooden balconies. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a coffee or a late afternoon glass of cider.
• Nearby trails: From the village you can wander the surrounding hills, where meadows meet oak forests. Some paths continue towards the coast and offer panoramic views of the Cantabrian Sea.
• El Soplao Cave: Just a short drive away, this cave is filled with stunning stalactites, stalagmites and unusual formations called helictites.
• Quote: The neighboring town, with its modernist architecture including Gaudí’s Capricho, is just a 20-minute drive away.

practical details
How to get there: Buses run about 45 minutes from Santander or Bilbao. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore nearby creeks and valleys.

best season: In spring and fall, temperatures are mild and there are fewer crowds.

Spain’s headline attractions are noteworthy, but its lesser-known landscapes and cities reveal something richer. They remind us that beyond Spain’s beaches and bustling cities lies a country where history, geography and everyday life come together to create experiences worth cherishing. Whether following the Roman tunnels at Las Médulas, cycling across the dusty tracks of the Bardenas or sipping cider in Piazza del Cantabria, every moment adds a new layer to your understanding of Spain.

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