Written by Manish Puri.
Next week, for the first time, Shanghai-based brand Ficus appears in the PS showroom on Harley Street.
Founded in 2016, Ficus draws inspiration from classic Western menswear styles, but often incorporates an Eastern sensibility. Simon and I had the opportunity to meet the brand’s founders and try on their winter collection in person in the January issue of Pitti. It was a particularly interesting choice and Simon and I both took the water-repellent ‘Altai’ down jackets.
Ficus is only available online outside of China, so I suspect many people may not have much exposure to this brand. and winThe upcoming trunk show will give London readers the chance to try the spring/summer collection in person before ordering online. All trunk show orders qualify for free shipping. I personally find it helpful to know a little bit about the product in advance to get a sense of the world of the brand before you arrive.
With that in mind, we thought our readers might appreciate a brief overview of some of my picks from the current season.
The trunk show will feature a variety of warm-weather options to suit most casual wardrobes, including single-pleated trousers (£193), lightweight western shirts (£223) and frog-button vests (£404).
Made from materials suitable for the peak summer season, such as lightweight cotton, seersucker and a variety of French linens, they are often pre-washed for a soft feel.
Ficus also has a good eye for color. The rust red popover shirt (above, £223) and blush pink baby cord shirt jacket (£297) provide a pop of color without being too dominant or showy.
But of all the Ficus clothing categories, what catches my eye are their outerwear and layering pieces. They offer a wide range of products, from faithful reproductions of basic pieces to more design-driven but still wearable iterations.
I’ve highlighted three of my favorites below. All are paired with simple outfits of white t-shirts and wash chinos (the former by PS, the latter by Buck Mason).
Staples Camp has a version of Ficus’ chore jacket: a five-pocket ‘lighter’ jacket constructed from 12-ounce washed ecru denim.
We’ve written extensively about chore coats in PS, so we empathize with our readers who are having a hard time choosing between the many options on the market. For those people, it’s better to focus on the details that matter most to you – price, color, material, style, brand, etc. – rather than endlessly searching for the ‘best’ product.
A notable element of the ‘Writer’ jacket is the patch flap pockets on the chest (providing extra protection for valuables stored inside). Contrasting corduroy color (makes the collar feel softer against the face and adds texture to keep the jacket from looking too clinical); Adjustable cuffs (if you have slim wrists or prefer a snug cuff) and washed denim (without the ‘break-in’ period often required for sturdier workwear versions).
The size I am wearing here is 48. Even though I’m more typically in my 50s, it fits well into a single layer summer outfit. So while it’s likely that your regular size won’t fit, I’d advise most readers to size down (which I rarely, if ever, suggest).
At £299, the ‘Writer’ jacket represents pretty good value at a time when some brands are asking prices closer to £500 for their chores.
It is an adjacent work and the most successful example of Ficus’s ambition to create a dialogue between Eastern and Western styles. Shanghai jacket (£560) complete with mandarin collar and frog buttons.
At first glance, I thought the fabric was cotton denim. But Ficus says the product is actually made from French linen woven into denim and then stonewashed to give it an aged blue-gray look.
So although the jacket may look heavy, it actually sits very lightly on the body. Likewise, despite being the same size (48) and generally the same cut as the cotton denim ‘lighter’ jacket, linen denim is much more comfortable against the skin to be worn as an outdoor layer and as a shirt/overshirt replacement.
This jacket is one of my favorite pieces in the current collection, but I fully understand that it won’t suit everyone, especially due to cultural sensitivities. I spoke to the brand about this and they acknowledged the concerns, but added:Chinese clothing has always evolved over time through exchange, adaptation, and reinterpretation. We do not see thoughtful and respectful attire as borrowing for its own sake. Rather, we see it as a form of gratitude and cultural connection.”
Speaking directly about gratitude and connection, I knew (reproachingly) little about Shanghai’s history and was unaware that the city was under the French Concession for almost a century, from 1849 to 1943. There is no doubt that history informs the “exchange, adaptation and reinterpretation” of ideas that underpin these clothes. It combines Chinese tradition and French workwear style.
As always, PS readers are fully capable of deciding what’s right for them, but I know that learning a little more about the history behind this work has expanded my cultural horizons a little more.
The last item I like is the Paracel jacket, a design inspired by vintage fishing jackets named after the Paracel Islands, a fishing village in the South China Sea.
The cut is cropped and boxy, a silhouette that’s a natural fit for the PS contributor. Alex Knott’s wardrobe. The sleeves (which is true of many Ficus outerwear and jackets) are filled out to the armholes and biceps, but taper neatly towards the wrists. The result is a very comfortable fit that doesn’t feel too sloppy or loose in the hand and allows for a variety of movements. I’m sure it’s ideal if you want to actually go fishing.
The jacket’s visual impact is enhanced by two acid orange zippered pouches on the sleeves that fasten with buttons. Like the Stone Island patch, I can imagine this detail being a design step too far for PS readers. However, like the Stone Island, if you don’t like the pouch, you can simply unbutton and fasten it inside your hip pocket. This is probably a great way to organize small items that might otherwise get lost inside your walk-up.
Water-resistant nylon fabric in rich forest green is finished with brown faux suede trim. I like the contrast of the latter, but my only gripe is that the faux suede can feel a bit cheap, and I wonder if the snuff corduroy trim would have made this jacket special.
Helpfully, this is one of the few things Ficus has to offer, so you don’t have to wonder for too long.n MTO based with options to customize fabrics and trims. There is normally a 15% surcharge for this service, but during the PS Trunk Show Ficus waives that fee, so you can get the jacket for £560.
Details about the trunk show are in the flyer below and we hope to see you there next week.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram.
