The shoes will be available to try on in all sizes at the London pop-up store starting tomorrow. all the details about it here.
In an article a few years ago Riviera style charm In the summer, I’ve written about the need for soft yet elegant shoes that go well with everything from tailored linen pants to shorts.
It’s a category that quite a few brands have explored, but they may be too smart (e.g. Belgians) or too chunky (e.g. regular boat shoes) to bridge all these uses. This is something we mentioned to Joseph Pollard, former head of design at RRL and now running shoe brand August Special, and this started a conversation about developing something together.
For a simple fit, the shoes had to be soft enough to be worn without socks. So much so that it can easily fit through the back door of the summer house. It also had to be elegant enough to be worn with the bespoke tailoring we love.
They’re unlined and made from moldable, vegetable-tanned leather, but are designed to slim your feet and are high quality with delicate stitching and construction. They’re inspired by traditional boat shoes, but Ralph Lauren’s low-profile, laid-back shoes (below) were especially popular in the ’90s, and I tried the vintage version.
The great thing about the shoe was that it was casual in design (leather laces, hand-sewn apron), but also elegant thanks to the low back and slightly elongated last.
For the summer version, I took that idea and some old boat shoes I had. We created a new custom last that emphasized comfort, such as the width of the joints, while pursuing a more sophisticated style by utilizing elements such as the apron shape.
If you look at the shoe below, it is interesting to compare the shape of the apron (the ‘U’ shape of the front stitching) with the overall width of the shoe. What catches the eye while making the shoes look long is the apron, but the shoes themselves are actually quite wide and comfortable.
While iterating the design with an Italian shoemaker, Joseph helped push the shape of the apron to make it thinner and longer and move the ends of the apron all the way to the toes. Although it wasn’t a standard design, it really helped create the overall look.
Another aspect we worked on consistently was creating a larger heel cup that was wider and roomier, but not too big at the top, and lowering the toe spring to give it a very flat and relaxed feel.
“There’s a lot of dynamism in the shoe that comes from this decision,” Joseph said. “The trainers, for example, are angled forward to create a fast feel. In contrast, I like how low and serene these shoes feel, as if you’re not rushing anywhere.”
These shoes are therefore loafers made of unlined, vegetable-tanned leather, made in the style of moccasins with self-tying leather laces. The vamp and counter are hand-stitched and feature main guide-style seams as an additional design detail.
We used a small, family-run shoe manufacturer in Italy that Joseph had worked with in the past and actually used to make some of the Ralph Lauren shoes we were inspired by.
They are made to a higher standard than most similar shoes found outside of Italy, with a finer finish, more stitches per inch and details such as rounded edges through the waist to the sole.
The sole has Blake stitching, which for me is the best of this type of lightweight summer shoe. As a result, you can solve it very easily at least two or three times.
The leather has been intentionally left with a minimal finish, so it will age quickly and beautifully. Your shoes will have noticeable scratches and marks, but these will soften and become part of the patina, making them feel like old favorites.
Interestingly, if you rub the inside of your shoe, the leather may darken slightly due to friction, but the color will fade. You can also use waterproof spray if it rains. More generally, it is useful to apply a slightly clear or tan shoe cream every few months.
Style-wise, these shoes can be worn with everything from jeans to tailoring. Both Lucas and Manish wore these shoes on a recent trip to LA, and you can see them in various outfits in the images in this article.
Lucas, on top, is wearing a semi-smart outfit: white jeans and a navy cotton sweater (the model we framed ourselves). Manish above is creating an elegant summer look by matching a linen suit (Art du Lin from The Anthology) with a white linen shirt.
And I’m wearing these shoes with jeans, with tops for a very casual look (untucked chambray shirt below) and a smarter look (tailored linen jacket above). Personally, I even wore it with shorts.
right
I know the first question readers will have is about size. We all have slightly different foot shapes, so I’ve tried to break this down as much as possible below, using all three of us as examples.
General advice:
- In keeping with other shoes from August Special, the shoes are listed in US sizes.
- Typically US sizes are half or a full size larger than UK sizes. This is usually half a size larger, so a UK 9 or EU 43 is equivalent to a US 9.5.
- The shape is moderately slim with an E width, but the unlined construction allows for easy modification and expansion into a wider fit.
- The laces are functional and can be used to slightly tighten the top line of the shoe. It is not recommended to increase it by more than 1 cm, but it makes a difference. If the straps seem a little long, you can easily cut them shorter.
Our Sizes:
- Simon is a size 9E in Edward Green and Crockett & Jones, a size 43 in European brands and a size 9.5D in Alden. He has long, thin feet and often has trouble finding loafers that fit snugly around the toes but hold in the heel.
- He got a 9.5 in these shoes. He considered a 9, which held the heel in place a little better, but tightening the laces a bit made a difference and the 9.5 was the right choice.
- The Manish has wider feet, so they usually measure between 8.5 and 9 depending on their width. He wears a 9.5D on Alden’s Aberdeen last and a 9E on his Van last. He wears a 9 in Edward Green and his August Special Augie shoes are a US 10.
- For boat shoes, I again considered a 10, but there was a bit of heel slippage, so 9.5 was best overall.
- Lucas is 10.5E for Edward Green, 45 for most EU brands, 11 for Barrie/Trubalance and 11.5 for Alden’s last Aberdeen.
- He usually chooses the 11.5 from the August Special, but he chose the 11 because he planned to wear them primarily without socks. And he found that the 11 gave him a snug heel grip, which was a priority for him, and there was still room in the front.
care
- The boat shoes are made from soft calfskin with a light wax finish. Designed to age visibly and quickly, creating a personal patina.
- If you are likely to wear it in wet weather, we recommend using a waterproof spray such as Saphir Super Invulner.
- Shoe cream is useful for maintaining leather in the long run. Can be used 1-2 times a year depending on usage
- If you want, you can use a shoe tree to make your shoes look smarter. The team didn’t use it.
- The shoes have Blake stitch, so many shoe repair shops can replace the soles. If you are careful, you can do this two or three times.
Product Details
- Italian-made boat shoes with hand-sewn aprons and counters.
- Italian Vegetable Tanned Calfskin
- Blake-stitched leather sole
- Unlined but fully lined with leather socks
- Functional moccasin-style leather straps
- Produced in coordination with American brand August Special.
- Only available in Shop.PermanentStyle.com
Note: When trying on shoes at home, try them on only on carpeted floors. We do not accept returns or exchanges on shoes with scratched soles.
