last week, I wrote about Why Stoffa is my favorite designer brand. They are designers to the extent that they create less classic clothing and are at the forefront of design (especially fabrics). But they also have many of the qualities we value at Permanent Style, including quality, craftsmanship and authenticity.
It’s more of an opinion. Today we’re going into more detail about the products, including a try-on session with Agyesh (Madan) and Nick (Ragosta), where they talk about what makes them special and reveal a bit about Stoffa.
We hope this provides useful extensions and cool, geeky details for all product enthusiasts.. Because these pieces were intentionally created for different seasons, some of them are not currently online (we’ve linked to them). However, products that are not available can be custom-made.
long sleeve camp shirt
Taupe wool/silk/linen
This piece is a great example of Stoffa’s use of Made to Measure. I like the style of this shirt and the unique material, but when I tried it on, it was too short and the body was too A-line. I’m thinner and taller than average for my chest size, so I often wear loose-fitting shirts.
However, unlike other places, I was able to measure the length and add little by little to make it fit my body. Interestingly, Nick said that people actually use this shortening because they want a bigger look. They go up a size or two for a really loose ’90s style, but you don’t want the length to reach your knees.
It is also interesting to note that here customization is not used to achieve precision as is usually done in tailoring, but to create different styles, different expressions of the piece.
suede popover
fig suede
This popover is most useful for showcasing the elements that make up Stoffa’s style. However, data is also being made public.
Regular readers will know that I have. Hermes Popover What I like. But despite the orange color, this piece is more classic than this Stoffa version. Stoffa products feature larger collars, deeper openings, no buttons and a wider fit, making them flashier/sexier/more expressive.
Its styles span the Stoffa range (knit polo shirt Similar. The entrance is larger and there are no buttons. This is something you should not attempt to change with customization. (The mistake I mentioned is Part 1). But that doesn’t mean other clothes won’t fit you. I might not wear a popover, but I will wear a polo shirt, for example, or a shirt with a larger collar.
Our conversation about the material revealed a lot of the work and thought process that goes into it. “We wanted the lining to be soft enough against the skin, yet slippery enough to be easy to put on and take off.” nick said. “It’s breathable so you don’t sweat too much, and it’s not too heavy. You can’t use yarns weighing more than 200g because it ruins the benefits of lightweight suede. It took us a while to find something suitable, but we got there.”
Most brands will opt for a standard lining (I’ve been in those conversations myself) and won’t use wool/silk in the ribbed areas.
double breasted shirt jacket
chocolate tropical wool
This is what I found particularly interesting because, as you might expect, it is closest to tailoring. But speaking with Nick and Agyesh about this, they highlighted how the sides and materials of the shirt can create two very different versions.
“We intentionally call it a shirt jacket,” Nick said. “Yes, it’s elegantly presented, but it’s not what you think of as a tailored jacket. No side panels, no darts, no lining at all. It’s made like a shirt.”
Nonetheless, this was the first thing I wanted to measure. Because the style is as complex as the jacket. Length, volume, even waist position. Shirts are easy to adjust remotely, but jackets are more complicated. Most agree, since most shirt jackets are ordered MTM in stores.
The second point was that the design was done that way to express the specific fabric as much as possible. Wool is chosen because it is soft and fluffy, while certain wools/silks are chosen because they are slippery and shiny. A lot of the point about clothing is about fabric, which is a way we’re not used to thinking about things.
We know this is actually a problem our readers have when they commission items like overshirts from tailors. They use sewing materials. Because it is possible. However, such materials are not always suitable for being completely unstructured. This is an area where design-led brands are almost always better.
raglan coat
Anthracite silk/cotton/linen
What’s the point of a coat if it’s not that warm or waterproof? I know this is a question our readers think and ask quite often. As with this coat, I think the answer is style. In mid-season, some people prefer three-quarter length clothing, such as field jackets, while others prefer longer clothing.
In fact, London is where medium courts are most useful. It can be cold in the morning but warm in the afternoon. Where there is frequent overlap; There is a higher chance of brief showers than the storms experienced in New York. This week was actually a bit like that in London.
It was also interesting to talk about waterproofing with Agyesh. Because waterproofing is a nuanced topic that is often reduced to ‘Is it waterproof?’ He doesn’t use treatments, but chooses materials that are more water-resistant. It makes a big difference if the material is more tightly woven, has a slightly brushed finish, is wool rather than cotton, etc. These types of things mean that water doesn’t immediately penetrate the material and creates a natural resistance.
Lastly, I don’t currently own any of the products above, but I do have several that I wear often. To explain in more detail:
- Spread collar shirt in cotton/silk slub (sand in ivory)
- U-neck vest in cashmere (walnut) material
- Currently available with cotton But not cashmere
- Field blouson in wool/hemp (sand)
- Measurements possible with a variety of materials
- Hooded sweatshirt in cotton terry (bone)
It’s all shown in the picture below. If anyone has any other questions about this or any other piece, please let me know. You can try to answer based on this experience or ask Nick and Agyesh your question.
