This cotton suit Lucca Museum I’ve gone through a few ups and downs and I still don’t think it’s right.
The first suit and cover made for me by a Korean tailor. hereIt has a larger body than anything I’ve had before, a great fit, and an interesting style. I grew to like it, but I also felt like it wasn’t my core style.
People said they could make something thinner and less wide, so we decided to give it a try last year. They definitely reduced the drape and fullness across the body, but they took it a little too far. The shoulders were quite broad. It was as wide as any other tailor I’ve used, but was surprisingly close to the body.
We also had a fitting so we tried to cover up the suit at that point, especially since it was the end of summer. It was August 2025, and we were filming in Zurich in early September (below). Reader event with Trunk.
The fit wasn’t bad for the most part. Hard parts such as balance and color fit were solid. Overall, the Luca Museo team has done a good job with this, as have other Korean tailors such as Assisi. and B&Taylor.
But style-wise, the suit was an odd combination, and the pants were too thin to be comfortable.
We arranged another fitting at Pitti in January of this year and received the suit a few months later. The jacket was an improvement, but the pants were weird. The hem sticks out a lot, but the fork and seat are still tight. It had to be adjusted locally before wearing.
My thoughts on this suit were that it would be the next update. Elia Caliendo I made one 10 years ago, and sadly it no longer fits (above). These lightweight cotton materials make great summer suits, especially in earthy colors, and are a great alternative to classic linen.
Luca Museo’s style is somewhat different from the soft, rounded cut of the Neapolitan Caliendo, but he hoped the extended shoulders would add elegance without sacrificing a light feel. Perhaps similar to a Roman suit. It is light, suitable for the heat, and has a more classic feel in terms of silhouette.
I thought this would have been a good style, but the Luca Museo suit still feels like a bit of an odd cut combination, and I think it was a mistake to ask the tailor to change his usual style as I wore it.
Of course, this is a mistake I have made in the past and I even wrote this to ruin myself.Let the tailor cut your style‘ – But here I wasn’t asking for anything drastic. I requested a slightly slimmer fit than the noticeably larger size of the first suit.
As with many things in custom commissioning, the problem probably lies in communication. Having a suit made in a style you see around you (calling and walking to the tailor yourself) is a form of communication. The suit is made to fit your shape using materials selected based on the style of the suit.
Verbal communication becomes more important when you want to get out of here, but it was lacking here. The Luca Museo team’s language skills are not bad, but they are not perfect, and communication is not only about language, but also the willingness to ask questions, check again, and make situations awkward.
General communication, for example letting people know when a suit will be ready or when to visit, is not something the team is good at. The fact that it’s represented by Hong Kong store Coller doesn’t help either, and it’s not always clear who’s in charge. (I asked for this to be explained in detail, and it is explained in detail at the end.)
If Luca Museo’s style suits you and you’re prepared and can get consistent access, it’s still a great option. The price is reasonable and as I said, it’s technically great.
Our colleague Manish Awesome suit made for him (above)It certainly suits him and he is currently making another one. He wore the first suit (and compared it to mine) here.
But if not, I would proceed with caution. Of course, as always, I told the Coller team all this. No one wants to notice. And they seem to understand.
Above all, I hope to help emerging tailors find the most effective ways to achieve long-term success. Because that’s how custom businesses are built. When bespoke is doing well, it is the most rewarding and beautiful way to buy clothes. However, it is not an easy business to start.
Korean tailor Luca Museo’s custom cotton suits are sold through Hong Kong store Coller. Fabric: Holland & Sherry 9oz cotton, 276009. Price $3800.
This may cause confusion as Coller’s founder Jaden Chan is also the international director of Luca Museo. Coller is headquartered in Hong Kong and also has its own sewing lines produced in Hong Kong, Korea and Japan. Luca Museo is contributing to the Korean portion of the production. Kohler tailoring is divided into red and black lines, with red being closer to in-house production and black being made directly by local craftsmen.
Other clothes in the main costume:
- White linen shirt by D’Avino
- vintage tan leather belt
- PS boat shoes
- Ichizawa Hanpu tote, via Trunk
- EB Meyrowitz sunglasses
