When you travel to South Africa, you often feel like you’ve seen it all. But sometimes a place throws me off balance and reminds me of how much beauty there is left to discover in our country. GweGwe Beach Lodge, on the Wild Coast along the continent’s eastern headland, is just that.
Most people reach this remote lodge by helicopter, boat or small plane. But since GweGwe is relatively close to home, we decided to take the scenic route and drive there. The scenery is an understatement. We drove through rolling green hills (it may sound cliché, but there’s no better word for scenery), past cheerful shepherds tending to their sheep, goats and the occasional donkey. At one point, a very determined pig walked across the street like he owned the place.
When we arrived, the lodge was almost upon us. Carefully nestled into the hills above the coast, it felt as if the lodge had been deliberately rolled into the landscape. If you didn’t know it was there, you might miss it completely. That subtlety turns out to be GweGwe’s secret weapon. You’re not trying to compete with your surroundings. In reality, it harmonizes.
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When we got out of the car, it was the lodging manager who greeted us with bare feet and a smile. “Welcome to GweGwe.” He said as he handed me a cold drink. “We are not your average luxury accommodation. Here you can relax and unwind.” It felt like simple, unvarnished honesty rather than a scripted line.
When people say the Wild Coast is “untouched,” I now understand they really mean it. It feels like a tropical resort with the endless ocean stretching out before your eyes. But at the same time it is unmistakably African.
On the first morning, I looked out my window to see a herd of Blesbok antelopes grazing across the vast blue sea. It was the simplest yet most awe-inspiring way to start the day. On our way back from breakfast, we saw a group of baboons playing on the private beach. Little baboons were doing somersaults on the sand. My teenage daughters loved every minute of it. With their phones in hand recording everything, they announced that GweGwe’s beaches were “the best Instagram material.” It’s really highly rated.
Enjoy a hike
Of all the adventures GweGwe has to offer, the guided hike to a hidden waterfall was my favorite. Our guide, Asanda, grew up in the area, and it showed in the way he moved through the landscape. Barefoot and seemingly in harmony with the surrounding land.
The hike itself was an adventure. Along the way, Asanda pointed out medicinal plants and shared personal stories from her childhood. He told us how when he was a boy he led a herd of cattle through these very hills. His storytelling alone could have conveyed the experience, but we arrived at Strandloper Falls.
Strandloper is a kind of waterfall that encourages you to do brave things. The water plunges into what appears to be a humble puddle. In reality, these “pools” are incredibly deep pits carved by time and water. “It’s completely safe.” Asanda said with a smile. Then, without a second’s hesitation, he jumped off the edge and disappeared into the void below. After a few tense seconds, he popped back in, soaking wet and grinning from ear to ear. “It’s your turn.” he shouted.
I would say I jumped. It really is. But self-preservation won out as I stared into what felt like an abyss. My family? Same story. We all got scared and decided to cheer Asanda on from the sidelines instead. Still, it was interesting enough for me to see him make that leap and survive with ease.
Baboon Cave near GweGwe Beach Lodge. The baboons return every night to sleep under the stars and to the soothing sounds of the waterfall. Photo credit: Dorine Reinstein
The next waterfall at Bibi Cave was pure magic and made me feel completely removed from the world. There, my daughter feared for her life when she jumped into the water and an eel jumped out next to her. “That’s Billy!” Asanda laughed and explained how the eel had miraculously emerged from the sea and settled happily in this secluded pool. It’s little details like this that bring GweGwe to life.
Our final stop, Horseshoe Falls, was a more calming wonder. We explored the quiet swimming pool and admired the ancient Bushman rock paintings carved into the stone. Asanda explained that these faint markings tell the story of the land and its people. It’s a reminder of how deep history runs through this quiet coastal area.
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Beyond the falls, GweGwe offers a slower, more reflective adventure. Paddling through the mangrove forest on a stand-up paddleboard or canoe is a calming experience. Floating on the water, hearing nothing but the sounds of nature, feels timeless.
Of course, there is also the option of doing nothing at all. GweGwe does “nothing”. Back at the lodge, I lay in the hot tub with a jaw-dropping ocean view and watched the waves roll in as the sky turned golden. Simple, calming and incredibly beautiful in a way that only nature can.
Food deserves its own love letter. Almost every day we were treated to fresh, locally caught fish and dishes inspired by local ingredients. Each meal met our high expectations for a luxury lodge while feeling deeply rooted in the Wild Coast.
regional focus
But what impressed me most about GweGwe was how naturally it incorporated a commitment to the local Ama-Mpondo community. Rather than paying lip service to uplifting the community, the property provides an opportunity to be quiet and authentic to the people who call it home. Asanda’s story is a perfect example, one of many examples of how GweGwe exists not just next to this community, but within it.
Admiring the ocean view from our room at GweGwe Beach Lodge was an ideal way to start the day. Photo credit: Dorine Reinstein
The lodge’s conservation efforts are equally interesting. This is especially true of plans to reintroduce white rhinos to the Mkambati reserve. Green Griffons, an all-female anti-poaching group, will lead the charge to create a secure future for endangered species while empowering local women in their conservation efforts. “Why are they all women?” asked one of the employees. “Because there is so much testosterone in every male group!” Came the shameless answer. But there is a serious intention behind the humor. That means empowering women to lead the fight to protect their heritage and the land’s most vulnerable wildlife.
This lodge is operated by Natural Selection, but is not exclusive to the travel agency’s guests.
If you’re planning a trip to GweGwe, I’d say it’s a perfect match for a wildlife-focused lodge like Phinda, just up the coast in the KwaZulu-Natal province. These two destinations offer the most complete African experience, from hidden waterfalls, wild beaches and paddling adventures in GweGwe to Big Five encounters and game drives in Phinda. Traveling among them reminds us how diverse and magical South Africa is.
