Explore India in Comfort on a River Cruise: Travel Weekly

Our colorful convoy of autorickshaws has just arrived at the marigold-orange 19th-century Katgola Palace, beautifully mirrored in the front pond. I was in awe of the magnificent four-story Palladian mansion built by wealthy local merchants in Murshidabad, India.

What made the experience even more enjoyable was that our riverboat crew arrived ahead of us and offered us a snack under the shade of the trees, energizing us with small cups of delicious Indian chai and cookies before our guides led us around the property.

There were many journeys that impressed me as much as this one, a week-long cruise along the winding 250-mile Hooghly River (also known as the Lower Ganges) from the town of Farakka to Kolkata. Our boat, the very comfortable 40-passenger Raj Mahal, was one of several riverboats owned and operated by Assam Bengal Navigation (ABN), an Indian-British joint venture that operates cruises on the Brahmaputra and Upper Ganges rivers.

India is an incredibly fascinating travel destination, but it can also be an overwhelming place to visit. I have visited several times, exploring by train, car, and plane, as well as by boat, and have found that river cruises alleviate many of the difficulties, making traveling in India convenient, safe, and luxurious.

This cruise typically had two daily tours planned, one before lunch and one after lunch. A pair of excellent Indian guides cruised with us for a week.

Lunch buffet served on board Raj Mahal. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise

Highlights of the trip included a visit to the 200-year-old Hindu temple at Kalna, which features beautifully designed 108 shrines dedicated to Shiva within two concentric circles. Another highlight was a morning exploring the Indo-Islamic ruins of Gaur, an ancient citadel hidden on the outskirts of a quiet village. This was once one of the greatest cities in India.

We walked through the farmland, passing a handful of women harvesting rice in brightly colored saris one day, who stopped to take photos and giggled at us. We walked through medieval villages where vegetables were piled high on bicycles and oxcarts, herders drove goats and cattle, and schoolchildren in uniforms shared the narrow streets on their bicycles going home.

Dickensian workshops still carrying out traditional trades such as brass and glass manufacturing were also on the agenda. We visited several impressive 16th and 17th century mosques and colorful markets.

British passengers were particularly interested in visiting the small monument at the site of the Battle of Plassey in 1757, where British forces defeated the local rulers and changed the course of Indian history. I was surprised to hear that many of our British guests on our tours still believed that British rule had been of great benefit to India, even decades after India’s independence.

Raj Mahal's Sun Deck provided ample space to observe the river and life along its banks. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise

Inflight Experience

After such an enlightening journey, there was nothing better than returning to our luxurious ship and having the crew smile, hand out fragrant handkerchiefs, refreshing drinks, and shine our shoes before the next journey.

Built in 2014, Raj Mahal has 18 spacious double rooms and 4 single rooms. All rooms are air-conditioned and feature floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors and amenities such as coffee and tea sets (real tea, not tea bags!) and a jar of delicious cookies replenished daily. Stylish rooms feature soft colored hardwoods and Indian handblock printed fabrics. The bathroom, closet, and storage space were ample.

Like most European river boats, the Raj Mahal has a spacious sundeck lined with seating offering views of life along the river. The windowed dining room below deck offers buffet-style breakfast, lunch and dinner service. Delicious food centered around Indian curry, bread and vegetables. Western options were also available for each meal and the service was excellent.

Before and after dinner, there are films, guided lectures, and on several evenings, traditional performances by local dancers and singers in the comfortable lounge with bar (drinks not included). There are also demonstrations of tying saris, dhoti and turbans, and a chicken curry cooking class (samples included!). A small spa offers massages.

19th century Katgola Palace. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise

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Some important facts to keep in mind:

Since most people fly in and out of Kolkata, you'll need to take a four-hour train to get to and from one end of the cruise to Farakka and back from Farakka. This is handled by ABN and is included in your cruise fare.

The fare also includes all shore excursions, meals, an English-speaking guide, and transportation to and from your hotel and train station.

All water on board is bottled and safe to drink. Eco-friendly glass bottles are refilled daily on board, as are the tin bottles used for travel.

For more information, visit the ABN website.