Nicole Edenedo
West African crocodiles at the Kachikali Crocodile Pool in Bakau, a town just outside Gambia's capital Banjul, are much less likely to eat you if they've already had a hearty meal in the morning.
That's because Moses Bajo, Kachikally's media spokesperson and dedicated custodian of the park's reptiles, is responsible for feeding the crocodiles every morning before the privately run, donation-supported wildlife park opens and keeping them happy for the daily influx into the park. Because it says there is. Many tourists freely roam the grounds, petting and posing with these creatures.
Fish are a special kind of insurance for tourists who want to feed Kachikally's crocodiles for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
“Every morning I feed the alligators fish. Alligators only eat fish,” Bajo said. “No beef, no chicken, no red meat, because that makes them aggressive and chases people.”
I found myself in Kachikally earlier this year during a call about Variety Cruises' seven-night West African river itinerary, which operates partly on the Gambia River. And as far as coastal excursions go, this one is definitely the best when it comes to an off-the-beaten-path experience.
Some of Kachikally's pescatarian crocodiles are as old as 76 years old, Bajo said, reaching about 2.5 meters in length and weighing as much as 1,000 pounds.
They are not kept in traditional enclosures, such as zoos or sanctuaries, where most people may be accustomed to seeing such animals.
There are no ropes, supports or other types of boundaries to tell guests which side of the park they should safely stay on.
Tour editor Nicole Edenedo gets an up-close look at crocodiles at Kachikally Crocodile Pool while on the phone about Variety Cruises' West Africa itineraries. Photo courtesy of Nicole Edenedo
Instead, as Bajo said, safety is built into Kachikally, even as the crocodiles roam freely like guests, walking the same sidewalks and seeking the same shade that visitors do in the park during the hot, dry months. .
Crocodile in real life
I was amazed to find myself standing toe-to-toe (or rather, toe-to-toe) with these scary-looking, but otherwise docile-looking reptiles.
I remembered the years I spent watching National Geographic wildlife programs. No matter how high definition your TV screen is or how sharp the close-up shots are, nothing can prepare you for the level of detail you will see when standing near a medium-sized crocodile in Kachikally.
Of course, I was incredibly nervous to get any closer. Every time I bent down to touch one, I would feel a shiver and jump screaming.
But finally I plucked up the courage. I started by reluctantly touching one of the scales with one finger. I expected it to have a rough texture that would make me even more anxious, but I was surprised at how soft and, dare I say it, chewy it was.
How to pet a crocodile
Bajo says the best and safest way to approach a crocodile in Kachikally is from behind its tail. While he and I crouched over one of the alligators from behind, Bajo showed me the process of guiding visitors through the park, starting with a light stroke of the tip of the tail and moving closer to the gator's midsection. This way they won't be startled by contact.
Occasionally the alligator will nudge its head while being petted, which may cause the visitor to run for the hills (like me), but Bajo assured me that this was natural and nothing to worry about.
The golden rule of Kachikally is to never approach a crocodile from the front, near its head. Bajo says that by doing so, he can startle and agitate the alligator.
Guests at Kachikally Crocodile Pool in Banjul, Gambia. Photo Credit: Nicole Edenedo
“Never approach someone from the front because they might not know what you’re doing,” Bajo said. “So make sure you always stay behind them. Start with the back, then the tail, and then the belly.”
As Baggio started rubbing the alligator's belly and the alligator's head started moving, I almost felt like I was falling in love with the big guy. I thought he wasn't that bad. Sure, he's scary, but it seems like not even a crocodile can resist the pleasure of patting his belly.
Variety Cruises' Gambia and Senegal river runs run from late December through February. The route offers two versions of the itinerary with round-trip sailings from Dakar, Senegal and Banjul.
