Lake Baikal – everything from everywhere

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It is the deepest lake in the world, the oldest lake in the world, and holds more fresh water than all five major lakes combined.

Lake Baikal, hidden in Siberia, is a place where geology, evolution, history, and mythology all come together.

It has its own seal species, a unique ecosystem, and a story that goes back millions of years.

Learn more about Lake Baikal, one of the greatest natural wonders on Earth, in this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily.


Lake Baikal has a set of features unrivaled by any other freshwater reservoir on Earth. It is simultaneously the world’s oldest and deepest lake, and the world’s largest unfrozen freshwater reservoir by volume.

Lake Baikal is located in southeastern Siberia, Russia, northern Mongolia, and near Irkutsk. It is long, narrow, and crescent-shaped and extends roughly from northeast to southwest. It is about 640 kilometers (400 miles) long, but in many places is only a few tens of kilometers wide.

The lake is surrounded by mountains, including the Baikal Mountains to the northwest and the Barguzhin Mountains to the east. This mountain range gives Baikal its dramatic appearance: steep coastline, deep blue water, and rocky promontories extending into the lake.

One interesting fact about the lake is that it has hundreds of inflowing rivers and streams, but only one outgoing river. The Angara River flows west from the lake toward the city of Irkutsk, eventually joining the Yenisei River system and heading into the Arctic Ocean.

Baikal is not just a beautiful body of water, that fact alone makes it hydrologically important. It is a major node in freshwater systems across North Asia.

In winter, Lake Baikal freezes, often forming unusually clear ice. In summer, the vast amount of water keeps the surrounding coast cooler than the inland areas. The lake’s seasonal ice cover is not only picturesque. It is central to ecology and influences the timing of the life cycle of light, currents, oxygen, circulation and water.

Lake Baikal exists because Asia is slowly breaking apart at that location. It is located within the Baikal Rift Valley, one of the most important active continental rift systems in the world.

In most lakes, time prevents deeper water. Sediment fills basins, rivers, and streams, lowering water levels, and lakes eventually shrink or disappear.

Baikal survived because tectonic forces continue to deepen and renew the basin. The fissures began forming tens of millions of years ago when the crust split apart, forming long valleys. Water filled the depression, rivers carried sediment there, and the lake developed into the massive basin we see today.

Seismic studies have shown that the bottom of Lake Baikal contains miles of sediment accumulated over millions of years. Researchers identified sediments approximately 2 to 4.5 miles thick.

The rift makes Baikal more of a pristine marine basin than an ordinary lake, but it’s not clear whether it will one day become a lake. Its formation is very similar to the creation of the African Rift Arc covered in a previous episode.

The crack is still active. Earthquakes occur in this area, hot springs are discovered around the lake, and the surrounding terrain continues to be shaped by faults and uplift.

What makes Lake Baikal different from all other lakes in the world is its volume and depth, both of which are the result of rifting.

The lake’s maximum depth is approximately 1,642 meters (about 5,387 feet), making it the deepest lake in the world. The depth of the lake does not include miles of sediment that extend beyond the bottom.

With approximately 23,600 cubic kilometers of water, Lake Baikal holds approximately 20% of all unfrozen fresh water on the Earth’s surface. That’s more than all five of North America’s largest lakes combined, despite having a smaller surface area than Lake Michigan.

Baikal’s depths also provide unusual circulation patterns. Deep lakes can be stratified with mixing of upper and lower water only under certain conditions. However, compared to many other deep lakes, Baikal’s waters are surprisingly oxygenated to a depth. This supports life below the surface and helps explain the lake’s unusual biological richness.

Baikal is sometimes called “Russia’s Galapagos” because of its age, isolation, and endemic species.

A significant portion of Baikal’s plants and animals are found nowhere else on Earth. The most famous animal is the Baikal seal (Nerpa), the only seal in the world that lives exclusively in freshwater.

How seals reached Baikal is still controversial, but the most likely explanation involves ancient connections through the Arctic river system and subsequent isolation and adaptation.

The lake is home to omul, a white fish that was historically central to local diet and commerce. Invertebrate life is even more amazing. Baikal is home to an incredible diversity of amphibians, sponges, molluscs, worms and microscopic organisms.

Most are highly specialized, adapted to cold, clear, oxygen-rich waters and ecological niches that do not exist in younger, shallower lakes.

The lake’s biodiversity is not just a list of odd species. It is a living experiment in evolution. Because Baikal is so old, the lineages within the lake have had time to diversify.

The human presence around Baikal dates back thousands of years, and there is archaeological evidence of hunter-gatherer habitation along the coast as far back as the Upper Paleolithic period. Over the next several thousand years, the region became home to various Turkic-, Mongolian-, and Tungusic-speaking peoples.

By the time of Russia’s eastward expansion in the 17th century, the dominant indigenous group in the region was the Buryats, a Mongol people who had developed a rich shamanism and later a religious tradition influenced by Tibetan Buddhism, with Baikal itself a sacred site.

Russian Cossack explorers arrived at the lake in the 1640s as part of Russia’s broader conquest and colonization of Siberia, and over the next decades Baikal was gradually incorporated into the expanding Russian Empire.

Because of its remoteness, it became a natural place to expel people. From the 18th to the 19th centuries, and into the 20th, the Siberian region around Baikal became a destination for political prisoners and exiles, including the Decembrists and numerous revolutionaries, after the failed uprising of 1825, which made the lake and its surrounding taiga associated with punishment and isolation in the Russian cultural imagination.

Scientific investigation of the lake accelerated in the 19th century, and a special research institute dedicated to Lake Baikal was established in the 20th century, especially under the auspices of the Russian Academy of Sciences and later the Soviet scientific establishment.

Lake Baikal played a key role in the Trans-Siberian Railway, one of the largest infrastructure projects in world history. In the late 19th century, Russia sought to connect European Russia with the Pacific Ocean.

The railway was intended to supply, populate, and unite Siberia, while also moving raw materials and strengthening imperial control across the continent. As part of the expansion of Russian railways in the 19th century, the Trans-Siberian Railway was created to supply and populate Siberia and transport raw materials west.

Baikal posed important engineering challenges. The railroad was able to reach the western and eastern shores of the lake, but the lake itself impeded the route. Before the Trans-Baikal Railway was completed, trains and passengers had to take ferries to cross the lake. In the winter, icebreakers transported train cars across the lake, connecting the two railroads.

The Baikal Ring Railway, built around the southern end of the lake in the early 20th century, was a remarkable engineering achievement. Tunnels, bridges and retaining walls were needed along the steep rocky coastline. It was the most technically difficult and expensive section of the Trans-Siberian route.

Later, the role of the railway changed with the construction of the Irkutsk Hydroelectric Power Plant on the Angara River. Water levels rose, older sections were affected and the main Trans-Siberian route was altered. The Ring-Baikal Line was eventually reduced to a dead-end historical and tourist route rather than a major artery.

During the Soviet era, Baikal became an industrial site and later became the site of one of the earliest and most prominent environmental controversies in Soviet history.

Established in 1966 on the southern shore of the lake, the Baikalsk Pulp and Paper Mill was originally built to manufacture a specific grade of cellulose intended for aircraft tire cords. Its construction sparked sustained protests from Soviet scientists and writers, which was notable because there was little opposition within the Soviet Union.

Facing various economic and political pressures, the plant operated intermittently until it closed permanently in 2013. Nevertheless, toxic accumulation in existing waste lagoons continues to be a serious problem.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the region’s largest economic activity was tourism. Baikal is one of the most famous natural tourist destinations in Russia, attracting visitors to the lake’s shores, Olkhon Island, the Ring-Baikal Railway, winter ice routes, hiking trails and lake cruises.

The area has attracted hotel investment and was designated a special economic zone in 2007, in part to encourage tourism development. Tourism creates many jobs, but it also comes under pressure from sewage, waste, illegal construction and poorly regulated operators. A recent study warns that mass tourism around Baikal could damage the very environment that makes the lake economically valuable.

Fishing is another traditional economic use, especially catching omul, the lake’s famous white fish. Fishing is important culturally and commercially to lakeside communities. However, it is no longer a dominant industry. In economic terms, the Baikal fishery is less important for its size than for being a local food source.

Perhaps the most important proposal put forward for the lake’s future concerns its vast freshwater reserves.

The most realistic proposal is to bottle Baikal water and sell it, especially to China. This is not an illusion. Several companies have attempted to market Baikal water as a premium natural product, and the commercial appeal of this idea is clear. “Pure Siberian water from the deepest lake in the world” is a powerful brand.

The most controversial case occurred in 2019, when a Chinese-funded bottling plant near the village of Kultuk on the southern coast of Baikal became the focus of public outrage.

A more dramatic idea is a pipeline from Baikal to northern or northwest China. China has chronic water problems, especially in the north and northwest where supplies are limited by agriculture, industry, cities and desertification.

One of the most widely reported proposals came around 2017, when planners in Lanzhou, China, came up with the idea of ​​pumping water from Lake Baikal to help solve the shortage. The report outlines a possible route of 1,000 to 2,000 km, with water pumped uphill and across very difficult terrain.

For obvious geopolitical and engineering reasons this is highly unlikely to happen. Russia will never allow water to be pumped out of the lake, no matter how much water there is in it.

Moreover, lowering the lake’s water levels could endanger many of the endemic species in and around the lake, which was granted protected status by being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Over the next millions of years, Lake Baikal will probably grow larger and deeper as the rift continues to widen and Asia continues to spread.

Lake Baikal is more than just fresh water. It is one of the planet’s oldest geological stories, a living laboratory of evolution, a sacred landscape for indigenous peoples, and a resource that is becoming more valuable as fresh water becomes more scarce.

Despite their massive size, they are extremely vulnerable due to their location and age. This proves that even big things can be extremely sensitive.