UoF’s latest lectures, Turtleneck Knit Top Drafting – 2 variations, part of the Cut and Sew Knit Drafting series.. (Image source: University of Fashion).
Today’s lesson is about the powerful turtleneck, fashion’s version of a warm neck hugger. We won’t draft one. two Variations: One with a neckline seam (for those who like a little drama) and one that’s all-in-one (for the no-fuss minimalist). By the end, you’ll know exactly how to decode turtleneck sketches like a pro.
ostrichddoing ~ Turtleneck knit top sketch with seams
First things first. First, we analyze the sketch, in this case a turtleneck with a neckline seam. Determine important details such as the front neck drop, how far the neckline extends from shoulder to neck, center back drop, and turtleneck height. Yes. Because in fashion, a few millimeters can mean the difference between “Audrey Hepburn chic” and “Help me, I can’t breathe!”
ostrichddoing ~ All-in-one turtleneck knit top sketch
Analyze the all-in-one turtleneck sketch for proportions and measurements. (Image source: University of Fashion).
When planning your all-in-one turtleneck knit top, it’s time to make some important decisions. First: How tall does a turtleneck make you? Do you want elegant, sophisticated height, or do you want height that is ‘hidden from humanity’? Next, make sure the fabric is stretched enough to slide over your head without tearing the seams or pride. If your fabric is on the stiff side, congratulations. There is a zipper on the back! Just know that the zipper will allow your turtleneck to stand up like a soldier on duty instead of slouching like a dream. Finally, measure how far the neckline travels from your shoulders to your neck and how low it drops in the center back. Because turtlenecks also like to maintain proportions.
Do you have a degree in stretch?
If you haven’t yet mastered the arcane math of stretch, check out the course. Knit Fabric Introduction and Principle of knit fabric. If your fabric bounces like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’ll want to plan your design details accordingly.
Ultimately, designing a turtleneck is about the balance between comfort and drama, structure and ease. Whether you choose a sleek stand-up collar or a cozy folded style, remember that every decision you make will determine the look and feel of the finished product. After all, a well-planned turtleneck doesn’t just adorn your face, it tells the world exactly how you want to be seen.
