The latest lesson in the Cut & Sew knit drafting series, Drafting V-neck knit top – 2 variations. (Image source: University of Fashion).
AV necklines create a bold, angular slit at the top of the garment, redirecting the eye straight down the center front and tricking the look of a longer neck and torso than high necklines such as crew, scoop, or square. It’s basically the visual equivalent of being a little taller without starting a tense diplomatic conversation with your shoe collection.
New to this class is a backstage pass to draft two flavors of V-neck knit tops. One is a V-shaped neckband with a smooth and clean finish, and the other is a stylish mitered V-neckband for an added sporty feel.
Read the V-neck sketch
V-neckline planning: Neck drop and distance away from the neck. (Image source: University of Fashion).
Using your fashion sketch like a GPS, you’ll focus on details like how deep the front V falls and exactly how far from the shoulder/neck intersection the neckline is.
Reading a V-neck with a band sketch
A V-neckline was designed with a neck and armhole band finish. (Image source: University of Fashion).
When you complete the V-neckline with a neck and armhole band closure, you’re basically participating in a little knit science experiment. Like any responsible pattern engineer, you’ll need to plan the base of the neck and the distance from the base of the neck, but now there’s additional drama. How wide should the neck and vibrating band be, and will they work nicely the moment you sew them, or will they stretch like overcooked spaghetti?
Stretch the neckband slightly, guided by the neckline draft. (Image source: University of Fashion)
To create a patterned neck and armhole band, cut a test band cross-grain with a length equal to the sum of the front and back necklines measured cross-grain and a height twice the desired width of the finished neckband. Then fold the band in half and stretch a brave little test band along the drafted neckline, then shorten the band so that it is slightly smaller than the paper draft. Do the same with the armhole band. This helps stabilize the neckline and armholes and gives it a clean finish.
Drafting a V-neck knit top in two irresistible flavors (one soft and sophisticated, the other sporting a stunning mitered neckband) is basically a VIP all-access pass to the secret world of cut-and-sew knits. Think of it as a fashion version of discovering a magician’s secrets. But I use cloth, not rabbit.
