My suggested Black Forest itinerary (updated for 2026)

In the land of the Brothers Grimm, I was expecting creepy lush forests, quaint medieval villages, and maybe a gingerbread house or two. But it turns out that the Brothers Grimm’s stories did not come from the Black Forest region of Germany (most of them came from the central region).

Why did I think they were from there? I really don’t know. Maybe they got it from Disney?

Additionally, in the 1700s and 1800s, large-scale logging converted most of the area into agricultural land. In recent years, forests have slowly begun to return to the area thanks to the efforts of environmentally friendly locals.

But despite (and perhaps because of) those shattered expectations, my week-long visit to Schwarzwald (Black Forest) was the highlight of my summer trip. It’s been on my bucket list forever, so I was happy to finally cross it off. I wish I had spent more time there.

Located in the German state of Baden-Württemberg, this region is famous for its forests (duh!), incredible hikes, massive waterfalls, lush farmland, cute cuckoo clocks (they were invented here!), and historic medieval towns (only partially destroyed in World War II).

Considering how big this area is, and how confusing many other blogs are about planning a route around it, I wanted to create an itinerary that would be easy for you to follow.

Getting to the Black Forest is very easy. You can fly north to Frankfurt or south to Zurich and then take a train for an hour or two to your desired departure city.

What is the best route for a week?

If I had a week, I would choose the route below from Frankfurt (or the opposite route if coming from Switzerland).

Heidelberg (2 days)

This university town has a lot to see and do, as well as a variety of observation decks and short hikes from the city center. You’ll definitely want to visit the castle and gardens, which offer amazing views of the city. Be sure to take a guided tour as it is the only way to enter the castle (the grounds are free). You can also visit the university prison (used to house students who broke university rules until World War II), the Heidelberg Kunstverein Museum of Modern Art and the theatre. Lastly, there are many hiking trails across the river and into the mountains.

Baden-Baden (2 days)

This spa town is famous for its naturally flowing hot springs, which have been a prominent attraction ever since the Romans discovered them. In the 18th century, bathhouses and casinos (think less glamorous Monaco) were major attractions for Europe’s wealthy and aristocrats. Baden-Baden is now a popular spa destination. The town is home to two large baths (the historic Friedrichsbad is nude and the newer Caracalla is bare) as well as Hohenbaden Castle and the Fabergé Museum, a cable car that takes you to the top of the Hausberg mountain for views of the region. And of course, because this is the Black Forest, we do a lot of hiking.

Freiburg (2-3 days)

My favorite city in the region boasts a beautifully rebuilt center (much of it destroyed during World War II), a bächle (open river) running through the city, amazing food culture, and affordable prices thanks to its large university. Other highlights include the cathedral, the historic clock tower, merchant hall, archaeological museum, Schlossberg (Castle Mountain) with its castle (from which it takes its name), incredible views of the town and surrounding area, and numerous good beer gardens.

I would like to use this city as a base for hiking into the nearby Ravenna Gorge and visiting Triberg, with its huge waterfall and cuckoo clock. Ravenna Gorge can be hiked from a half day to a full day, depending on how much area you want to hike. You will walk through canyons, see waterfalls, and pass through farmland.

Triberg is famous for its huge waterfall and large cuckoo clock. It takes a few hours to get there from Freiburg, but I would only go as a day trip. Because although the waterfalls and cuckoo clocks are nice, there isn’t much to do in town and spending an entire night here was a bit boring.

What’s a good two-week travel route for this area?

If I had two weeks, I would like to add an extra day in Freiburg. Because there is a lot to do and you can do more day trips there. Then also add:

Offenburg (1 day after Baden-Baden)
Offenburg, meaning ‘open borough’, is famous for its medieval city walls, houses and churches, but originally began as a Roman settlement. There are many buildings showing Baroque, Gothic, and medieval styles. From Offenburg you can also visit the castle, historical museum and Black Forest Open Air Museum, a 40-minute drive away. Do this after Baden-Baden as the route becomes easier.

Europa Park (1 day, en route from Offenburg to Freiburg)
This theme park is like the Disneyland of Europe. It’s a lot of fun, very popular with locals, much cheaper than Disney, and a fun way to spend a day. You can stay in the park or nearby Rust Village. It was well worth a night’s stay and one of the most recommended things people in the area have told me to do, and when many locals recommend theme parks (not a typical recommendation!), I listen.

Hiking around Titisee, Schluchsee and Feldberg (2+ days)

There are also plenty of lakes and hikes in the area, so you can easily add a few days in nature as you have time. If you’re looking for water activities, Titisee is a village located on the lake of the same name. Schluchsee is another popular destination for Germans. You can also base yourself in Feldberg for numerous day hikes. In fact, you can find hiking trails wherever you go. You can also hike to the Zweribach waterfall for some truly beautiful scenery, easily accessible from Freiburg or Titisee.

How can I get around?

The easiest way to travel around the Black Forest region is to rent a car, but you can also travel by bus or train. What you need to remember is that while trains run frequently, buses often run on limited schedules. This is especially true on Sundays, when most of Germany is off. If you’re planning to visit smaller cities without renting a car, check train and bus schedules in advance. The tourist office has all the itineraries (or you can find them online).

The Black Forest was the highlight of my summer in Europe. It was there that I met the most people, had the most fun, and did the most hiking. I loved the atmosphere there. If you love cute towns, affordable travel, great outdoor activities, and delicious food, the Black Forest is a must-explore region.

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