Fira and Oia receive the most attention. The Santorini version is real, but it’s also well-rehearsed: clifftop sunsets, blue domes, photos that look the same across thousands of travel feeds. Two towns a short distance south offer something different. This is what the island looked like before package tourism was rewritten.
Pyrgos and Megalocori were formed through Venetian fortifications, pirate raids, and wine trade. Their distance was created not to pose for cameras, but to confuse invaders. Combined with a stop at the summit monastery of Profitis Ilias, they make up one of the most historically layered half-days on the island.
Related reading: Santorini Ecotourism Guide
Explore the medieval villages of Santorini with a local driver
Want to see Pyrgos, Megalochori and Emporio without having to worry about driving or parking?
Find a flexible private tour or transfer service to connect you. Traditional villages in Santorini Stop at Prophet Elias Monastery, the highest observation deck on the island.
Common options are 4-6 hour island tour This includes walking through the alleys of the villages of Pyrgos, Megalochori and the medieval Castelli of Emporio. your speed and interest.
if you prefer go deeperYou can also add quieter neighborhoods, such as the villages of Finikia and Vothonas, or find an itinerary that combines villages with traditional winery stops for tastings.
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Pyrgos: the medieval capital of Santorini
Pyrgos Kallistis (“Beauty Tower”) sits amphitheater-like on the central hill, offering views of Santorini in almost every direction. It was once the island’s capital, but in modern times that role has been transferred to Fira. What remains is a typical example of medieval architecture. It has narrow, maze-like streets, fortified walls and hidden passageways, and by Santorini standards, tourism is relatively low.
There are more than 40 churches in the village. Some have blue domes that make for great photo opportunities on the ramparts, while others are small enough to be missed entirely on your first pass. The Church of Theotokaki is one of the oldest churches on the island, dating back to the 10th century. Built between 1660 and 1661, the Church of Panagia Eisodion stands at the highest point of Kasteli and houses Byzantine icons and carved wooden icons. Most are only unlocked for service or by agreement with a local. Wander upwards along the alley and you will eventually reach an open area.
The speed here is different. The sounds of the village (the backgammon of the local Ouzeria, the occasional cat call) mark the tempo at some distance from the ferry port and the line at the edge of the caldera.
Related reading: Medieval Santorini villages: where the island finally slows down
Inside the Castelli
Pyrgos Castle was built around 1580 during the Venetian period, and is the most recent of five fortified settlements built on Santorini. Its elevated position gave defenders a clear view across the Aegean Sea and the plains below, and its design was focused on deterring pirate raids.
The maze-like structure of low, two-story houses and sheltered balconies was deliberately designed to dismay anyone who breaches the walls. The castle had only one entrance gate that was locked at sunset. There was a hole above the entrance into which anyone who reached it could pour boiling oil. The settlement was also built on a network of underground passages, intended as a last refuge if the castle fell.
Castelli largely escaped the damage of the 1956 earthquake, which reshaped much of the island, which is why it remains the best-preserved of the five Venetian fortresses on Santorini. Now, as you walk down that road, you can still read the geometry of the defenses on the street plan. There are no dead ends, sharp turns or direct lines of sight.
Megalochori: Wine Merchant Village
Megalochori dates back to at least the 17th century and was built around wealthy merchants who exported Vinsanto wine across the Mediterranean. Neoclassical mansions, formerly owned by wealthy landowners and wine merchants, sit alongside cave houses and traditional houses along the winding streets leading to the main square.
Money can be seen in architecture. The old mansion’s high exterior walls and heavy wooden doors are not purely aesthetic. It also provided protection against the same pirates that threatened Pyrgos, making Megalochori a place that had to defend itself while hoping to prosper.
The town square is a natural stopping point, surrounded by cafes and tavernas that are shady, quiet and unhurried in the afternoon pace. The bell tower of St. Mary’s Church stands above the square’s main alley, and its six bells are crowned by white arches over the cobblestones below. The town is small enough that most roads end up in the same square, so getting disoriented in an alley feels harmless.
The surrounding plains are covered with vineyards producing Assyrtiko grapes and Vinsanto wine. This trade funded the manors that still remain in the town. Several wineries operate within minutes of the village, including Boutari and Gavalas.
Profitis Ilias: 567 meter high island
The Monastery of Profitis Ilias is located at the highest point on Santorini, approximately 567 meters above sea level, and offers views of essentially the entire island from its courtyard. On a clear day, the caldera, the village, and the Aegean Sea are visible all at once.
The monastery was founded in 1711 by two monks from Pyrgos, brothers Joachim and Gabriel. It was built to resemble a fortress. The monks of Santorini in the early 18th century had the same interest in pirates as the townspeople below. For about 150 years during the Ottoman Empire, it functioned as an educational and economic institution, operating schools teaching Greek language and literature and operating trading ships across the Aegean and Mediterranean.
Several monks still live and work there today. The monastery houses a collection of rare church items, handwritten books and Byzantine icons, along with active workshops for printing, shoemaking and candle making. The monks also produce wine.
Prayers will be held each evening for anyone interested in attending. Check times before you visit. The biggest day of the year is the Feast of St. Elias, July 20, when locals travel for full worship and a vigil.
It can be accessed by car from Pyrgos along a winding paved road or on foot via a clearly marked 2.5km trail from Pyrgos’ main square. The trail takes approximately 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes one way.
practical information
- How to get to Pyrgos: Regular KTEL buses run from the main bus station in Fira to Pyrgos. Take the Fira-Akrotiri line and get off at stop 9. It’s an 8-minute walk to the town center. Pyrgos is about 10 minutes southeast of Fira by car.
- How to get to Megalochori: It is located in the southwest of the island, about 10 minutes’ drive from Pyrgos and 15 minutes from Fira. If you are taking the bus, take the Fira-Perissa route and get off at Megalochori stop. Parking is available off the main road next to Family Bakery.
- Ilias gained the following benefits: Direct buses do not reach the top. The nearest bus stops are on the Fira–Kamari line (stop 15) and the Fira–Perissa line (stop 9), both about 3 km from the monastery. The 2.5 km hike from Pyrgos is clearly marked and takes 60-75 minutes. By car follow the paved road uphill from the town center of Pyrgos.
- What to Wear: Comfortable walking shoes are required for both the castle alley and the monastery walk. Shoulders and knees must be covered to enter monasteries and open churches. Prepare sunscreen. There is very little shade on the way to the top.
- When to go: If you visit Pyrgos and Megalochori early in the morning, you will avoid tour groups that arrive during the warmest part of the day and mid-morning. For Profitis Ilias, late afternoon offers the lightest and coolest temperatures for the trail. Related reading: Why you should visit Santorini during shoulder season
- Entry cost: There is no entrance fee to Pyrgos village or Megalochori. There is no admission fee at the monastery, but donations are welcome. Some churches may be closed unless locals arrange access.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to walk between the Monasteries of Pyrgos and Profitis Ilias?
yes. The 2.5km marked trail starts from the main square of Pyrgos and climbs up to the monastery. This route takes approximately 60-75 minutes one way and is moderately difficult due to the elevation gain. The trail passes through scrubland and vineyards and has no shade, so start early and bring water.
Is Profitis Ilias Monastery open to visitors?
Although the monastery grounds and exterior are accessible, the interior is generally closed to the public except during daily evening prayers (5-6:30 p.m.) and on religious holidays, especially July 20. A small gift shop near the entrance sells products made by monks. Modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees is required.
How much time should we allow for Pyrgos and Megalochori?
Including stops at the castle and square, the trip to Pyrgos takes approximately 50 minutes to an hour. Megalochori guarantees 30-40 minutes for walking through the alleys and squares. Adding Profitis Ilias as a third stop (by car rather than on foot) adds about 30 to 40 minutes, including driving and the view from the top.
Are Pyrgos and Megalochori suitable for travelers with limited mobility?
Both villages contain cobbled, bumpy alleyways and staircases, especially inside Pyrgos Castle. Mobility aids suffer on both fronts. It provides easier access to Megalochori’s main square and lower streets. The road to Profitis Ilias by car is completely paved.
Is there anywhere to eat in Pyrgos?
yes. Pyrgos has plenty of local food, concentrated in the main square and streets below the castle. Several of its restaurants have received national recognition. There is also a cafe in the square that is open from the morning. Megalochori has a smaller number of tavernas around its own square.
What are the differences between this town and Santorini’s main tourist areas?
Oia and Fira were built primarily around their caldera views and the tourist infrastructure developed around them. Pyrgos and Megalochori were created before that infrastructure. The Venetian castle of Pyrgos was designed as a fortress, and the mansions of Megalochori were built by wine merchants before the island became a tourist destination. Neither town is undiscovered, but both operate at a noticeably slower pace and display a different physical history of the island.
