P Johnson recently opened a new store on Old Burlington Street in London, and it’s a really cool space. I would go so far as to say that it adds a sexy touch to this conservative part of the city.
Wait a minute – I hear you say it – that sounds like something you’d hear in a mainstream fashion magazine. Why do we care if it’s a cool space or not?
Well, because most brands that have a point of view on clothing design also have a point of view on store design. The two usually reflect something about each other, focusing on simple functionality even if they lack design.
For P Johnson, the top image of the new fitting room says it all. Padded velvet walls, leopard print carpet, gold curtains and more. This means being a bit generous. entertaining.
I asked Patrick Johnson if he thought the mood had changed much since we first covered it in 2017.
“Dramatically. Now we are more mature and the brand feels much more determined and confident. Comfort and comfort are at the heart of what we do, and I think that’s often thought of as sexier. There’s always an underpinning of classicism and technology in what we offer, but I think we’ve evolved to allow it to breathe a little more.”
Thankfully, my point makes sense as the aesthetics of the space are reflected in the clothes. Although it doesn’t feature velvet or zebra leather, materials like silk predominate, and there are many dark-toned colors.
For example, the shirt above is made from 65/35 cotton/silk, which is a good ratio to convey the feel of silk without being heavy or delicate. It feels light and soft on the skin, and most of the brands we cover don’t really give off much of an evening vibe.
It also comes in a grey/green color that feels a lot like Armani. There are plenty of these types of colors around the store, including greige, olive, dark navy, and brown check (below).
(Some of the PJ styles seem specifically Armani-inspired, like the first model photo shown below, but it would be fairer to say they have a late 80s/90s vibe, not just Armani.)
Another unusual shirt material PJ has is pure silk oxford, which is heavier but uses an unusual oxford weave to give it a solid feel (above).
The materials that can be used for sewing are also interesting. I know this part will be particularly important. Reader interest.
While most tailors use the same fabric books as each other, some purchase rolls of fabric to develop exclusive pieces, keep a vintage vault, or offer something different. Savile Row tailors such as Huntsman and A&S often do small custom selections. Anglo-Italian develops its own complete bundle. The Anthology is stocking up on an exclusive product or two, including: Recently Used Codes.
P Johnson has unique and exclusive clothing in this regard. Also included is the silk/wool mix pictured below. This is from Cuomo’s Serica. It has a matte finish, not unlike Solbiati’s popular Art du Lin. (MTM starts at £880 for half canvas and £1030 for full canvas, but these more expensive fabrics push the price up to £1470 and £1620 for this wool/silk).
I loved the colors and materials of many of the pajama shirts, but most of the styles just weren’t right for me. The collar was too small to fit the clothes I had cut, and the fit was too bluish (some were larger than others).
However, most shirts can be custom made, and in fact, some are only available that way (one of the reasons you can’t find some shirts online).
This is the second important point I would like to highlight. About P Johnson. Too much customization really makes the product public. This means these fabrics are available to a much wider range of people in terms of style and body type.
The company has always operated partly in this way, and when it first started in London it had very little on display or stock. But now the range of clothing is much wider and most people who walk into a store don’t assume that most of the clothing is MTM. There is a tailoring area in the back filled with a variety of clothes, but in any other store like this, the rest of the clothes on display would all be ready-to-wear.
Customs are also very affordable and have a wide range. For example, the olive silk shirt I mentioned is expensive. £285 are ready £290 custom. The biggest increase on shirts is £25.
The custom version allows you to change simple proportions (waist, length, sleeves) and design points such as pockets. collar. You have to stick to the standard shape, but there are 40 different colors and 6 different pocket shapes.
This is the first thing I’ll try in my PJs, and I think I can handle it when I’m ready. There are a few other great things in this range, but I think having these unusual fabrics and MTMs is the most exciting.
Other goodies include: Various styles of lightweight coats – full length and three-quarter length, mostly waterproof synthetic materials in dark colors; Some belts with interchangeable buckles (exotic versions of these are only available in Australia), plush slippers and soft loafers.
Most knit styles didn’t work for me, either with very low necklines or fairly small collars (I’ve always wanted a one-piece collar style to work).
Lastly, the elephant in the room: back in the day. We reviewed P Johnson first.There was some outrage in the comments from Australian readers who said the company had been less than honest about where the foundation was based.
I can’t argue with any honesty now or then, but today the PJ Shop guys are very open and to the point about Chinese made items. I have always agreed: Other Asian markets, such as China and Korea, often produce better products than Italy or Portugal. Focusing on country of origin is not very helpful.
When we asked Patrick, he said: “We learned a lot, mainly about how to tell the production story. We never meant to mislead, but it was nice to have more clarity and transparency. The Pronto workshop just south of Shanghai is at the heart of what we do, and the quality and value that comes from there is exceptional.
“We sold our interest in the business to our former partner in the middle of last year, but we continue to produce in our Italian workshop in southern Tuscany as well. And our next project is in Korea, which is really refreshing.”
We hope the PJ team expands their business in London. It definitely adds freshness and fun to the menswear here.
pjt.com
25-28 Old Burlington Street, London
