By Eric Osling.
Since most of my wardrobe is second-hand, Simon recently asked me if I wanted to write about second-hand clothing and vintage purchases.
I smiled when he asked, because most people who are truly good at finding used items don’t want to explain how they do it. Whenever I ask vintage dealers how they find all the good stuff, they usually change the subject.
Buying and selling vintage isn’t my living, so I feel a little less defensive about sharing some of the things I’ve learned along the way. But honestly, success is usually less about secret knowledge than it is about persistence. Today I’ll share my thoughts on why I buy used, where and what to look for, and some of the photos I’ve discovered over the years.
end of style
I started buying used items online in the early 2000s. I had very little money and wanted something cool that didn’t exist in Stockholm. As an early adopter of mobile internet, it opened up a whole new world for me. Especially when bidding on Evisu jeans and Arc’teryx jackets on Ebay. Perhaps the seeds were planted there.
Once I started earning more money, I bought new, ready-to-wear clothes for almost 10 years, and later MTO. I then took a senior role at a luxury online retailer which offered a £25,000 annual clothing allowance. Oddly enough, that’s pretty much eliminated my interest in buying new clothes (except for a few pairs of John Lobb Antibes and Edward Green Dovers…).
I think the reason is that once a task that was difficult to handle became easy, it became no longer fun. Rather, what was interesting was finding something that only existed once, and I think that’s where most people with a deep interest in clothing end up.
There are really only two ways. One is expensive and one is slightly cheaper. The first is custom-made. You are asking your tailor to create something completely unique for you. Another is to buy used items.
What’s interesting is that bespoke and vintage represent two completely different forms, ‘one of a kind’. Custom is total control, pre-owned is discovery.
Great vintage clothing can surprise you. You discover proportions, materials, details, and patinas you never imagined on your own. A big part of the fun is discovering things you couldn’t design on your own.
It’s also hard to ignore the quality of items made before fashion brands exploded. In most cases, used prices are much lower, the fabrics are better (because there is less stress on cotton crops and sheep), and the craftsmanship is more meticulous than most products produced today.
where to look
When it comes to physical second-hand shopping, I tend to think of four categories: markets, charity shops, bulk resale stores, curated boutiques or curated archives. The differences between them are mainly labor and price. The fewer things you want to do yourself, the more expensive things become.
Personally I find markets, charity stores and bulk stores most interesting. This is because I enjoy the search itself. Handpicked stores can be especially expensive because the owners often have a personal connection to every garment. I regularly find that most things can be found much cheaper if you put in the effort, but I try to support these stores when I find something truly unique. Because these stores often have a fantastic eye and are a great source of inspiration.
If you too love to hunt, finding a store with the best selection isn’t rocket science. If you’re traveling to a country with an old upper class and strong sewing tradition, head to the wealthier neighborhoods and start digging for weekend markets and local charities.
Wealthy people tend to buy nicer clothes, and donating to charity is common behavior. I used to find shirts in charity shops in Chelsea and Kensington with the dry cleaning tag still attached. To be honest, I think taking the time to wash your clothes before donating them to charity is a good metaphor for how you should behave in life.
When you begin your search in your local city, visit as many stores as possible, then narrow it down to those that have the most potential. Then visit often enough to explore the different products. You will be able to notice new arrivals quickly and your visit will be quicker.
Build a relationship and ask how often and when new shipments arrive. Give them your phone number and bring the goodies when they help you find what you’re looking for. Pastries are always appreciated.
What should you look for?
The problem with charity shops is noise. You have to get used to the cognitive overload of endless bad things happening. It is necessary to develop an eye to quickly identify special parts hidden among everything.
You will be using your hands a lot when searching for rails. I am constantly touching fabrics and looking for natural fibers: linen, wool, cotton, cashmere, silk. When putting on a jacket, first tighten your shoulders to feel the structure. The sleeves are usually hung out, and you can see them just by looking at the buttons or buttonholes on the sleeves. Next is to take out the jacket and look at the collar. Unfortunately, most jackets are immediately ruled out because they have the wrong lapels.
This is difficult because chutes are usually separated when sorting. Trousers are used with trousers, and jackets are used with jackets. You need to identify the lone suit jacket masquerading as a sport coat.
Coats are probably the easiest second-hand purchases. There are still plenty of beautiful wool coats floating around for very little money. Raglan shoulders generally have a more forgiving fit than tailored jackets. I found five good coats (if not more) for each sports jacket.
I also buy a lot of 80s pants. That’s because the drape is great and the fit is roomy so you can easily change up one or two sizes.
The biggest thing that secondhand has taught me is to look for potential rather than perfection. When I find something interesting, I calculate the cost of repairs in my head. It is essential to have a good relationship with an experienced tailor. If the fabric is good enough, it may be worth changing the shoulders. Even if the cost of repairs is double the price of the jacket.
My final advice is to think ahead about who will own the clothes after you. I always ask my tailor not to cut unnecessary fabric, to fold sleeve and pant lengths inward if possible, and to preserve seam allowances for future alterations.
Thanks to second-hand goods, I gradually stopped thinking of myself as the temporary caretaker of my clothes rather than their owner. If you haven’t already, please do so. And in the end, when someone asks you how you can find all these good things, you can smile and answer:
“The more you see, the luckier you get.”
Here are a few of my favorite stores that offer a curated selection:
- Hornets – London
- Crowley Vintage – New York
- Marchesan – Stockholm
- Safari 3 – Tokyo
- Rudolf Boffeis – Hamburg
- Tartan Vintage – Florence
- Horse and Ribbon (Men) – Milan
- Brut Archives – Paris
Areas worth visiting
The areas around London’s Pimlico/Chelsea/South Kensington are good proxies for wealthier areas with many charity shops. I use Google Maps and visit as much as I can, but as with all of these things, I really fail.
Street markets held regularly
- Navigli Market – Milan
- Portobello Road/Ladbroke Grove Market – London
- Porte Vanves Market – Paris
