Several readers recently asked me about my dislike of quarter-zip (and half-zip) sweaters. This is probably due, at least in part, to their growing popularity as a financial office staple and fashion.
in the same way navy chinos, My objections to quarter zippers are narrower in scope than people often remember. This problem is partly a result of their popularity (again, like navy chinos). Men think they are the answer to everything because they fit in with everything. But they don’t. Because they don’t. Just a few things.
Quarter zippers are a great idea because they can be worn with t-shirts as well as shirts. So you can wear the same thing to work and on the weekend and not have to think about it.
Unfortunately, in most cases, quarter zippers don’t go well with shirts. The sharp collar of the shirt points downwards diagonally towards the arms, while the soft collar of the knit points upwards diagonally towards the ears. The two will always be pitted against each other, never sitting together effectively or gracefully.
Quarter-zip sweaters were originally sportswear and today are best worn over clothing such as t-shirts that can be zipped or unzipped. It’s functional and nice in its location. It frames the face nicely when open and zips up under an overcoat for a similar effect to a roll neck.
Collared shirts have other knitwear designed to go with them, such as crew necks or V-necks, and they usually go much better with collars.
The only problem with crew necks or V-necks is that they are more difficult to wear with t-shirts. This is a topic that deserves a separate article someday. And a bit depressingly, sometimes people say it’s too noisy.
This came up in another article recently, where a reader said she wears a gilet because crew necks are too difficult to put on and take off at the office.
Now I know that some people work very hard, are very tired, and clothes are not at all at the top of their priority list. But it seems a little odd that you take the time to read a niche blog about menswear and then feel that taking off a crewneck is so cheesy.
There may be another article here at some point. In proportion to the time you spend shopping, you are investing time in enjoying, experiencing, and maintaining good clothes. That’s something I definitely feel guilty about. You should spend more time mending and washing your clothes, more time actually cleaning your shoes, and less time browsing the internet to find new things.
But I digress. Quarter zippers can be great, but they mean you should think of them primarily as sportswear. Now here’s a word of caution.
First, some shirt collars work better than others. A soft button-down oxford with a quarter-zip neck that rolls more outward will be a better partner than a stiff dress shirt. Still, I mostly prefer crew necks or V-necks.
Second, sometimes wearing a quarter zipper for tailoring is a point of contrast with sportswear. This is a common phenomenon in Ivy clothing. But the point is the clash of ideas. If clashing isn’t what you want, don’t wear it.
Third, wearing a quarter zipper with a tie is in some ways better. This is because the shirt collar is tied and flatter. It was originally worn as a ski suit and then worn for sports such as golf. But still, the times are different, so I prefer the V-neck.
Modern office uniforms are a bit more demanding than the suits and ties worn in the past, but not that difficult.
Wear a soft-collared shirt, a nice crewneck sweater, chinos or tailored trousers, and loafers/boots/derbies. Focus on a few pieces that are good quality and go together, like a suit and tie. Finish with a light coat or jacket, followed by a heavier coat or jacket. Sprinkle in accessories to attract attention.
Personally, even if you wear a collared knit like a cashmere rugby, a quarter zipper is a good idea to wear over a t-shirt on the weekend. And I actually prefer the half zipper over the quarter zipper. The latter may look like a V-neck that is too shallow. At least the short zippers do.
Lastly, very long zippered collars that fold over the shoulders are a trend these days. I tried this (above)I ended up finding it so annoying that it didn’t actually zip shut, at least comfortably. There are many things to take from women’s fashion regarding the half zip (see Chanel below), but I don’t think it’s one of them.
