Did you know that there are more clothing options for dogs than there are for people with disabilities? It’s taken a long time, but the fashion industry is finally addressing the needs of the disabled community, today known as Adaptive Fashion.
Thanks to expert Tracy Vollbrecht, the University of Fashion has launched a five-part Adaptive Fashion Series to help educate the industry on the adaptive fashion market. Our new series covers the history of adaptive fashion, how to design and develop adaptive fashion, and how to sell and market products for adaptive fashion consumers.
Tracy Vollbrecht of Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting and lecturer at the College of Fashion (Image courtesy of Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting).
Our series begins with the terms used to refer to different types of disabilities. Mr. Vollbrecht also provides a downloadable glossary and definitions document to help you understand the appropriate language and terminology used in this specialized market segment.
Adaptive fashion designed by Tracy Vollbrecht for Yarrow featured in a Canadian TV show. Fashion This (Image courtesy of Tracy Wolbrecht)
Mr. Vollbrecht’s history of adaptive markets includes innovators like Helen Cookman. Helen Cookman began researching the market potential for adaptive clothing at New York University’s Institute of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation in 1955 after being recommended for the role by Dr. new york times Style Editor Virginia Pope. Cookman spent the next four years developing a collection called Functional Fashions, a collection of 17 items designed to help people with disabilities dress independently. But Mr. Wolbrecht explains that after the deaths of Helen Cookman and Virginia Pope, the functional fashion movement began to decline and was replaced by clothing designed to make it easier for older people to get dressed. It wasn’t until 2004-2007 that the Adaptive Fashion Showroom and the Wheeliechix-Chic company founded by Louisa Summerfield came into existence and took adaptive fashion to the next level.
Monica Engle Thomas wearing white Yarrow sleeveless button-down designed by Tracy Vollbrecht (Image credit: Yarrow)
Tracy Wolbrecht Interview
UoF founder Francesc Sterlacci sat down with Tracy Vollbrecht to find out why he was interested in designing for adaptive markets and his thoughts on where they are headed.
Francesca: Do you have any formal training as a fashion designer? If so, where did you get it? What inspired you to pursue a career in adaptive fashion?
Tracy: is it so! I received my BA in Fashion Design from Kent State University. In Kent I had the opportunity to conduct research on adaptive fashion, which is still in the early stages of its second wave. I say second wave because there was the first wave of adaptive fashion in the 60s (check out our History of Adaptive Fashion class for more details!). In the research I conducted, I spoke to over 75 people with a variety of disabilities to learn about their challenges with clothing. My research has culminated in a collection of universal designs shown at Kent’s annual fashion show, published research papers, and presentations of my research at various conferences, including the annual conference of the International Textile and Apparel Association. My work in Kent has shown me that the clothing problem is not just a problem faced by my father with multiple sclerosis, but a problem faced by many people. This motivates me every day to keep doing what I do. Clothes should allow everyone, not just some of us, to express themselves and feel good.
Francesca: How in demand are designers with adaptive fashion expertise? How did you connect with the companies you design for in this space?
Tracy: Unfortunately, adaptive fashion is still a niche part of the fashion industry, and I and others are working to change that. Adaptive fashion designers are not yet in high demand. We hope to see the niche grow and create more demand for designers, merchandisers, buyers, marketers, etc. with adaptive fashion experience. The companies I worked with either found me, recommended me, or connected me through their network.
Francesca: Can you tell me the name of the company you designed for or the company you currently work for? Do you have a dedicated online and offline store that exclusively sells adaptive fashion?
Tracy: My first adaptive fashion role was at Juniper Unlimited, where I helped design and launch the brands Yarrow and ULEX. Through consulting work with Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting, he has developed training resources for Target, delivered lectures at IFA Paris, conducted research for the Open Style Lab, and more. I can’t share who I’m working with right now, but I’m really excited to see what the future holds! At this stage, adaptive fashion is almost exclusively online. As we discussed in our merchandising class, online shopping has both advantages and disadvantages for consumers with disabilities. It would be great if brands could display adaptive products in stores so shoppers can discover them organically.
Francesca: What is the biggest challenge in designing for people with physical disabilities?
Tracy: The biggest challenge in creating adaptive fashion is the diversity of needs and the fashion cycle. Clothing requirements, body types and issues vary widely within the disability community, and even within the same disability (physical or otherwise). The two disorders are not the same. This is why it is so important for brands to collaborate with people with disabilities. However, the time and effort required to properly develop clothing that actually fits everyone is at odds with the fast-fashion, trend-driven nature of the current fashion industry.
Molly Farrell wears a top designed by Tracy Vollbrecht of ULEX, one of the brands she helped launch. (Photo courtesy of ULEX)
Francesca: Do you see the adaptive market growing as companies like Tommy Hilfiger and other big brands become more inclusive?
Tracy: Obviously! The potential for brands to tap into the unmet needs of consumers with disabilities is endless. Just because a few brands have entered the market does not mean there is no room for more brands, in fact all brands. There will be “sufficient” adaptive fashion when consumers with disabilities have the same brand, price, and style choices as non-disabled consumers.
Francesca: What advice would you give to students interested in adaptive fashion design?
Tracy: My advice to students is that adaptive fashion is more than just adaptive design. Getting adaptive fashion into the hands of consumers requires every role within the fashion industry (merchandising, product development, purchasing, marketing, etc.). If you’re interested in adaptive fashion, give it a try! Follow disabled creators on social media. Stay up to date with what brands are doing. Volunteer at a fashion show. Especially for designers, adaptive fashion is still fashion. Experience working at a fashion brand is essential. Because the adaptive market is still growing and there aren’t many adaptive design roles, take advantage of learning from them as the design and development processes for non-adaptive fashion still apply to adaptive fashion.
To learn more about Tracy Wolbrecht:
Cell phone: 732-632-7071
Website: www.vollbrechtadaptiveconsulting.com
LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/in/tracy-vollbrecht/
Company LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/vollbrecht-adaptive-consulting
Learn more about Adaptive Markets
Read the book: All About Adaptive by Michele Chung
See how a new store in Pasadena, California serves the adaptive fashion consumer: Sewn Adaptive
