I thought my readers would find this interesting. Ben Clarke, the bespoke tailor who made me some great jackets and waistcoats while at Richard James, has set up in Brighton under the name Atelier Tyzack and uses two slightly different cuts. Each falls somewhere between an English architectural style and a softer Southern Italian style.
He asked me to help him create a video explaining the ideas and differences for his website. This is a video. Here’s what’s interesting:
- The fact that I wanted to create two unique cuts rather than simply mimicking the Neapolitan cut.
- Doing so is expensive and virtually impossible for most homes that use exterior coatings.
- Why he thinks high armholes are less important than they used to be (and I agree)
- His preferred method is to move the shoulder seam forward.
- Different ways to organize canvases by type
The jacket on the mannequin on the left is a more structured (or northern) cut. It’s similar to the jacket Ben cut for me earlier. The one on the right is an example of a softer (southern) cut and I’ll probably try that next time.
For those of you who want to see me tear down those two jackets, I’ll start at 23:40.
Ben has appointments scheduled in London and Brighton and will be up and using our showroom on the 20th July for his next appointment. His contact information is here.
