One year later: Progress and hiccups in the cultivated meat industry

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June 21, 2023 was a historic day for cultivated meat. After the U.S. Department of Agriculture granted inspection clearance to Upside Foods and Eat Just, the two companies were able to officially bring their grown chicken products to the market.

The industry has been waiting for this federal announcement since 2013, when Mark Post created the first burger product using cultured cells.

Both companies boast the ability to create products that look, taste and feel like traditional animal-based meat, but are better for users and the planet.

However, the past year has been very complex for the industry. Between limited access to capital and political obstacles, the future of farmed meat appears very uncertain.

“Access to capital has definitely strengthened,” said Dr. Elliott Schwartz, senior scientist for cultivated meats at the Good Food Institute, in an interview with Food Dive.

“Governments in particular have a big role to play now in seizing the opportunity to invest in research and development and infrastructure for growing meat,” he said.

Access to capital will be a challenge for the industry in the coming years, but philanthropists are helping. For example, Amazon founder and former CEO Jeff Bezos opened the Alternative Protein Center of Excellence at North Carolina State University.

One step forward, two steps back?

After Upside Foods and Eat Just reached the final stages of the U.S. government's approval process for sales, major California companies The company's products are making their U.S. debut in two restaurants run by celebrity chefs.

Michelin-starred chef Dominique Crenn introduced Upside Foods' chicken at Bar Crenn in San Francisco, while acclaimed chef Jose Andres introduced Eat Just's Good Meat chicken at one of his restaurants in Washington, D.C.

However, both restaurants discontinued serving the product several months later. The original details of the partnership were unclear, but both companies said the restaurant launch was intended to garner feedback from consumers.

Crenn's partnership with Upside Foods was t.o Luxurious food service spaceCOO Amy Chen told Food Dive in a previous interview.

By February last year, Bar Crenn had taken over after China Chilcano removed Eat Just's farmed chicken from its menu. Last place for U.S. consumers to get farmed meat.

“In the case of Upside Foods, the product they launched was a structured chicken breast product, which is 99 percent cultured animal cells, which is difficult to manufacture,” Schwartz said. “It was a monthly product for them. The expansion of that product didn’t work as well as they had hoped.”

Due to the high cost of producing primarily cultivated products, many companies have created hybrid products containing a mixture of cultivated animal cells and other plant-based proteins.

Eat Just's Good Meat in May alliance With premium grocery store Huber's Butchery Singapore is selling a new product, 'Good Meat 3', which combines 3% of cultivated chicken with other vegetable proteins. According to Eat Just, Good Meat 3 products have allowed the company to lower production costs and sell its products at competitive prices.

Schwartz said this is how the industry can move forward because these hybrid products are much cheaper to produce.

Upside Foods, where 99 percent of its first cultured chicken was cultured cells, is now reworking the product to be closer to a hybrid, Schwartz said. So the company will have to wait until it gets regulatory approval again.

“There are a lot of companies in the U.S. that have been waiting for regulatory approval for quite some time,” Shwartz said.

He said part of the wait is due to a change in staff responsible for food safety in grown meats at the Food and Drug Administration. “Because we changed evaluators, it took some time to refine how quickly they could review and approve applications.”

As for why Upside Foods and Eat Just are no longer available to U.S. consumers, Schwartz said it’s hard to say what motivates individual companies, but the goal with initial product approval is always to get consumer feedback and then adjust strategy accordingly.