This is the second of the custom washable cotton jackets pictured above, made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. For information on what makes the washable jacket so unique and how it has been worn and washed so far, See that article. Today is a review of the jacket itself, excluding washability.
A tailored cotton jacket is good. The style has a formal feel, but the material has a casual feel. It’s comfortable and functional, but can dress up a t-shirt and jeans.
Linen is good, My slubby linen DB It has many of the same properties. But cotton jackets are really the best. A good jacket will look even better if you keep your hands in your hip pockets, stuff other pockets full, stuff it in your bag, and sleep in the corner of your carriage.
Linen isn’t as tough, and summer cotton jackets are closer to warm-weather tweed or corduroy. Easy to repair and patch.
Perhaps most importantly, sophisticated tailoring has become more accessible.
If I were to continue competing on permanent style, it would be to find and showcase advanced tailoring methods that can be modern and relevant, rather than fussy or old-fashioned. A tailored cotton jacket that fits snugly but still looks like you’re actually sleeping in it is a great way to do this.
i had Cotton clothes over the yearsBut few cotton jacket. One reason is the material. It can be made from 9oz (255g) twill, which is standard for suits. very nice suit However, it is a bit weak for a Knockabout jacket.
They are on the heavier side and are primarily sold for trousers, but are usually too stiff to be comfortable as a jacket. There are also moleskin and corduroy, but they are better for winter.
Whitcomb & Shaftesbury sourced Japanese cotton* to make this jacket, or for another customer, who asked them to make something similar.
It’s only 300g, a bit heavier than the twill we used in the past, but it’s not made like traditional tailoring cotton. It’s rougher and denser, making it casual and tough. I also think higher density means it’s cooler because it’s further away from the body.
This type of cotton is not commonly used in sewing, partly because it cannot be worked to the same level. But Whitcomb has done a great job of shaping it, No canvas or padding.
Simplified the design of another customer’s jacket. He went for a more traditional safari jacket look, complete with tabs, epaulettes and more. I wanted something stripped and simple with the same purpose: subtle and easy to wear.
Actually, at the last minute, I only chose the reverse pleats that were visible on the pockets. It’s a lovely detail and I’m glad it doesn’t make the jacket look too fussy. But the lesson I’ve learned from past experiments is that whenever in doubt, always go with the simpler.
The edges of the pleats are lovely. especially, I washed my jacket..
These handcrafted details are visible throughout this custom cotton suit. discussed in the past. Some of them are:
- The pick stitching is definitely not the AMF machine fake style you see on ready-made jackets.
- Hand-sewn buttonholes stand out because of the hard material.
- Stitching visible around the cuffs on the inside of the sleeves
- Hand-attached collar visible when the collar is unfastened
- For the tailored nerds: A cut used on the upper chest to give shape to the chest without hand padding.
Still, there’s a style mistake or two.
In retrospect, the lapel gorge would have been lower. I’m not sure how I missed it during the fitting process since they always go lower these days. I tend to wear the collar up more than down, so it doesn’t really matter.
And I should have checked the functionality of the collar latch. It’s a nice detail that’s hidden and has buttons on the back, so you’ll probably never use it. However, it would have been nice to be able to secure it comfortably around the neck, but it’s a bit high for that.
The way I wear the jacket, it’s exactly the look I was hoping for with jeans and a t-shirt as well as a shirt and tailored pants.
As always, I took pictures of both for illustrative purposes. What makes the jacket particularly comfortable to wear with jeans is that the collar rolls up nicely. Tailored jackets often don’t come naturally that way because they have more structure.
It’s neater with a t-shirt tucked in (the blouse sticks out a bit), and interestingly enough, I prefer a jacket with three buttons on top rather than a frilly jacket.
Custom combinations are included in the now fairly standard palette of cream, brown and black. this shoot I think it was 6 years ago).
It’s a fairly plain version, but the pop of color from the sunglasses’ orange-tinted lenses and the snuff suede color add some vibrancy. Metier tote bag.
Pants can be quite smart, either heavily twisted or linen like here, but shirts should be fairly casual. Denim, chambray, or other lightweight cotton material, preferably with a soft collar, are recommended.
This jacket is custom made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury and costs £2400 including VAT. Other colors available in the same material include black, navy, olive, and beige.
Clothing pictured:
*Cotton cannot be purchased cut to length as it is not usually serviced by tailors. Whitcomb, like his chinos, buys them by the roll.
