Written by Manish Puri.
It arrived a little late to the season, but that didn’t stop me from wearing my new Luca Museo Donegal Tweed suit every chance I got. It quickly became popular and received compliments wherever it went. Just a few weeks ago, an attractive woman rolled down her car window and shouted “Nice dress” at me. (For context, she almost ran over me, so it’s possible she was overcompensating for almost killing me.)
The volume in the arms, the draping through the chest and the wide trousers all work together to create an incredibly comfortable suit. But more than that, I think it’s very pretty to look at, almost voluptuous.
Expanded shoulders accentuate the curves from sleeve to waist, while lapels (supported by multi-layered dart canvas) are echoed by rounded sections. The latter is like a sailor setting off for land, even when just taken out of the delivery box. Proud and energetic, in some cases they may need some ironing. out Its! Just trying to calm things down a bit.
But I’m not here to review this suit. If anyone is looking for an analysis of the Museo house style, simon’s article Perfect service. What I’m interested in is why, in my humble opinion, this cut seems to suit me better than Simon.
Why am I pushing ahead with my second summer commission while Simon hesitates?“I’m not sure if the cut of the jacket is something I want to pursue in the future.”)? Why do I think Simon’s suit is very good but my suit is good?
I hope that by examining these questions I can provide readers with some more general guidance on clothing, style, and dressing for your body.
The first point is somewhat subtle, but I think it’s important nonetheless. That is, how accustomed your eyes (yours and those around you) are to seeing certain silhouettes, colors, or patterns. Often, grumbles of dissatisfaction are less about the thing itself and more about our own hesitation in the face of the unfamiliar.
In this case, my long-time readers and I are well aware that I look fuller, wearing high-waisted pants and loose-fitting jackets. Cream linen suit from Tailour. Simon, on the other hand, is a bit more modern and usually dresses a bit closer together. (As always with customization, the differences I’m talking about here are measured in centimeters and even millimeters.)
It was really interesting to hear Simon’s opinion when we were shopping together recently and was torn between RTW sizes. He generally prefers a medium on me for a neater back and more shape, while I tend to prefer a large to give me extra comfort.
Sure, visually he’s getting his money’s worth, but I’m the one who has to live in my clothes, and I know from experience that I’ll only save myself a heavy night’s sleep or fried breakfast from the irrational banishment of clothes that feel even remotely limiting the cold outer reach of my wardrobe.
So my Luca Museo suit (whether you think it looks good on me or not) will probably be recognized and accepted sooner within the parameters of my usual style. Simon’s request, on the other hand, immediately feels like something different and demands further evaluation.
Of course, in addition to highly subjective and completely personal factors like comfort, there are other, more objective reasons why Simon prefers his style and why I prefer it. The most important of these is physique.
Even though we both have the same chest measurement (40″), Simon’s shoulders are longer and more sloping than mine. To accommodate this, his Luca Museo shoulder seams are a full 7″ and an extra half inch of padding has been added to the sleeve heads (making it one of the widest jackets he owns). Mine, on the other hand, is 6.5″ plus half an inch long.
I think the extra length may accentuate and even exaggerate the slope of Simon’s shoulders.
Now, lest anyone accuse me of being poor body-shaming Simon, I’d like to add that part of the appeal of straightening your shoulders is that it gives you a wider base from which to draw your waist. And this is an area where Simon needs much less help than I do.
I have a pretty straight torso. If I measure my circumference anywhere on my torso, I’ll probably get the same number. But Simon doesn’t have that problem. He has an actual drop of 6kg while I have an aspirational drop of 6kg.
So I think Luca Museo’s extended shoulders better suit both my actual shoulders and the prerequisite of a cut that creates the illusion of shape through my waist.
My final observation was prompted by reader Ale’s astute comment on Simon’s initial review. Would this suit excel in a more casual fabric than a formal navy worsted?
I think there is some wisdom here, much of it backed up by association. Common adjectives attached to a ‘navy worsted suit’ are crisp, sharp, sleek, and corporate. That’s a word I don’t normally use for Luca Museo house cuts. This is partly reminiscent of late 80s Armani tailoring (with wider set shoulders and low ravines).
That historical inspiration is probably the final reason why I think this suit fits so well. The fabric, made from vintage Donegal Tweed purchased at Luca Museo, has cool colors and a mottled marley texture that feels like something straight out of the Armani runway. (Holland & Sherry 8821402 is also similar)
So, without realizing it, I started to feel that my commissions were instinctively more cohesive. The visual language and tradition of the cut harmonize with the language of the fabric.
Of course, all this theorizing and rationalizing is based on the opinion that the Luca Museo suit fits me a little better than the Simon.
But you might reject this claim. You might like Simon’s look better. You might not particularly like it either.
And that’s okay. Because ultimately, formulating your own perspective and understanding what feels true to you is how you develop your personal style and learn how to discern the fine line between a good suit and a good suit.
Manish is @the_daily_mirror On Instagram
Lucca Museum We are currently holding a trunk show in New York.
Other clothes worn:
- MTO Bryceland’s OCBD (it’s poplin following the same block and collar shape) with no oxford fabric and no button-down.
- Drake’s black knit tie (one of the most versatile things I own)
- Red Rabbit Lil’ Thunderbird Pin and Ring
- London Sock Co socks in Highland Heather
- Black calf Alden tassel loafers
