Author: Nico Lazaro (above).
At first glance, cowboy boots do not seem to fit into the classic men’s wardrobe. They are bold, local and have a strong cultural identity. It may feel unfamiliar, especially to readers outside the southwestern United States.
But beneath the surface, cowboy boots share many of the qualities that define the clothing we so often admire: honest construction, historical purpose, and a slow, thoughtful beauty that comes with wear.
Like penny loafers, khakis, or denim, cowboy boots have become a unique and timeless piece of American clothing. They may not have the universality of British benchmade shoes or Italian loafers, but they offer a more democratic and radical elegance, especially when styled in a discreet and understated way.
I believe that cowboy boots, if chosen carefully, can be perfectly integrated into a modern wardrobe, regardless of region, and I will try to make this happen. It is not a novelty or a costume, but a work of serious and sustained craftsmanship.
Design and Intent
Originally designed for riding horses, cowboy boots were developed for function. The high shaft protected the legs from brush and the angled heel helped keep the feet in the stirrups. Decorative details such as contrast stitching, inlays and ‘toe bugs’ evolved from functional reinforcements to become iconic motifs.
Toe bugs or toe flowers (above) are one of the longest lasting. The most famous version among hobbyists is the work of Ray Jones, a mid-20th century maker whose stitch patterns became instantly recognizable. This is a type of logo or signature that collectors admire for its individuality.
What’s notable is that the core design of the boot remains virtually unchanged. Today most fall into two camps. Traditional Western boots have high heels and a distinct shape. And loafer boots, developed for field rodeo work, have lower heels and a more forgiving profile.
The latter are easier to wear, especially for those new to the style, as they work like Chelsea boots and can disappear into well-cut trousers. (See Simon’s coverage of the pair here.)
Wearing cowboy boots today
The problem isn’t finding a pair, it’s figuring out how to wear them without looking like you’re wearing a costume.
The first time I wore a full suit and cowboy boots, I thought it would be easy because the formal feel of the suit offset the ruggedness of the boots. It didn’t work. The proportions felt strange. The energy wasn’t right.
What ultimately clicked was that all the cultural icons I loved (a young Dylan, Springsteen, Redford, Ralph Lauren, Kevin Bacon at the Airport in the 1990s, even Anthony Bourdain) wore boots casually, worn with distressed denim or loose tailoring in muted color palettes.
John Mayer in Visvim loafers with jeans and a T-shirt, and Austin Butler in a chore coat and vintage Levi’s were more modern clues that confirmed this. I just had to take it to the ground.
These days I wear honey suede Tecovas Johnny boots with 1950s U.S. Army chinos or straight leg high slim jeans from There There, usually paired with a Buck Mason Toughknit t-shirt (above). La Botte Gardiane’s My Gardian boots (waxed crust roughout leather loafers) are more everyday-friendly with sport coats and denim, where true cowboy boots might push the look too far.
The layers I wear are a military jacket, chore coat, denim jacket, or sports coat with a soft structure that has a texture and silhouette that matches the rugged elegance of cowboy boots.
William Yan of No Man Walks Alone has seen a similar evolution. “If you had told me 10 years ago that I wore cowboy boots, I would have laughed,” he said. But now it rotates daily. His entry point was a pair of suede loafers from Wythe. “The round toe and low heel made it feel like a familiar desert boot or chelsea.”
From there, he graduated to a pair of snuff suede westerns. “The heel took some getting used to at first, but now it feels like second nature.” He styled them with pearl snaps, ribbed tanks, and denim (501, 517, Wrangler, and even a 5-pocket cord). “Make sure the leg openings are wide enough to go over the shaft. If it’s too tight and the marks are visible, it won’t look good.”
Ethan Wong (above) takes a more conceptual approach. “If you’re wearing Americana clothing — sawtooth shirts, chore coats, leather jackets — cowboy boots are kind of the last word,” he said. “They identify a topic.”
Ethan often wears tailored boots, but only if he already has a western or workwear anchor, such as a denim shirt, textured tie, or casual pants. “It’s no longer a ‘menswear fit with a Western twist.’ It’s a Western fit that happens to include tailoring.”
That’s the secret, as Cody Wellema, a hatmaker from Altadena, California, explains (below). Boots should confirm the perspective of your outfit, not challenge it. When products already speak the same language – earthy colours, sturdy fabrics and relaxed proportions – the boots feel like they belong.
Makers and Crafts
Unlike many other footwear traditions, cowboy boots are still handcrafted in small workshops in Texas, Oklahoma, Mexico, and elsewhere. Although a few factories have become industrialized, many manufacturers still make all their products by hand.
The Zephan Parker Custom Tier from Parker Boot Company is one of them. Built one piece at a time, the brand promises lifetime repairs and reconditioning on every custom pair. “We want this product to be worn every mile,” Zephan said.
Austin-based producer Graham Ebner sees his boots as “a modern-day translation of the cowboy boot – closer to Bourdain than Tom Mix.” He works one-on-one with his customers to understand how they will wear their boots.
“If you work in court every day, you might have a kangaroo skin and a higher pull so you can’t see anything when you sit down. Or it might be the other way around. You might do something special that’s hidden low and visible when you sit down.”
Graham’s top priorities are design and structure. “I want my boots to look beautiful but also function perfectly. What good is it if the strap rips or the fit doesn’t fit after a year?”
He added that although the number of traditional manufacturers is shrinking every year, the next generation is strong. Independent bootmakers across America, especially many women, are continuing their craft with new perspectives and surprising skills. Here’s who he should keep an eye on:
place in the closet
I admit that cowboy boots are not for everyone. They require confidence and sometimes a little humility. But for those interested in clothing that has cultural weight and authenticity, it can be an incredibly satisfying addition.
In Texas and other parts of the West, owning two pairs is common. One for ranch work and one for dinner. La Botte Gardiane and Tecovas boots are versatile in my wardrobe, but when formality calls for them, I tend to forgo them entirely. When I want character, attitude, and presence, I turn to cowboy boots.
To me, this shoe is a piece of heritage that, in the right context, can proudly stand next to a Northampton brogue or Neapolitan loafer. All you need is confidence, a good pair of pants and the willingness to stand a little taller.
Where to Buy Cowboy Boots
Trusted names across tiers are:
Entry-level and ready-to-wear
- Teco Bath (Austin, Texas/Leon, Mexico): Clean design, reasonable price, great for beginners. Designed in Austin and made in Leon, this is the Timex of cowboy boots.
- Weiss (New York/Leon, Mexico): True vintage-style silhouettes at affordable prices. It’s a great gateway option with a variety of matching clothing options.
- Lucese (El Paso, Texas): The Heritage line is sophisticated and quality-driven. It’s a pseudonym for good reason.
- anderson bean (Mercedes, Texas): Known for bold, functional boots with an authentic feel.
- Chisos (Austin, Texas): Excellent build quality and comfort. We’re a step further than most direct-to-consumer brands.
- Zeros, Clinch, Rolling Dub Trio (Japan): The Zerrows are a sophisticated take on Red Wing’s now-defunct Pecos, a loafer-style work boot. Clinch offers simplified cowboy boots. Rolling Dub Trio’s Loro falls somewhere in between, with a modern side zipper option.
Customization and customization
- rios of mercedes (Texas): RTW manufacturer with an in-depth archive of leathers and patterns and a trusted MTO program.
- plate parker (Houston, Texas): Parker Boot Company’s MTO line offers clean, classic styles that are entirely handcrafted.
- Houston Boot Company (Leon, Nevada/Mexico): Custom options are available along with a limited RTW selection made in Leon for good value for money.
customized
- parker boots company (Houston, Texas): Perfectly custom made with lifetime service and a sleek, minimalist design. (Below.)
- Graham Ebner (Austin, Texas): Elegant hand-welded boots with a keen eye for proportion and fit.
- Texas Traditions/Lee Miller (Austin, Texas): Legendary boots revered for their traditional handcrafting.
- Lisa Sorrell (Oklahoma): Sculptural and highly detailed boots crafted with artistic vision and obsessive skill.
Nico Lazaro is a writer based in Los Angeles. He’s @nickelcobalt on Instagram
